Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barrel of Monkeys S 
Bloke On The Side T 
Bridget the Midget T 
Byway T 
Chick on the Side T 
Conversions T,TR 
Court Jester T 
Crazy Stairs T 
Curving Dihedral T 
Dandi-Line T,TR 
Dead Letter Department T 
Drug Abuse T 
Erickson's Finish T 
False Prophet T 
Fever, The T 
Going Postal T 
Good Ship Venus T 
Handcracker Direct T 
Hanging Chad T 
Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) T 
Human Factor, The T 
Hyperspace Roundup T,S 
Ignominity T 
Ignore Me T 
Iron Horse T 
Knife, The T 
Lightning Bolt Crack T 
Lost in the Netherlands T 
Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up T 
Mail Ridge, The T 
Mesca-Line T 
Muscle and Hate T 
Pluto T 
Pony Express T 
Pony Express, Briggs' Variation T 
Practice Climb 101 T 
Practice Wall T 
Prison Sex T 
Pygmy Pony T 
Quick Silver T 
Quicksand T 
Quiet Desperation T 
Reckoning T,S 
Rhombohedral T 
Seemingly Innocent T 
Side Wall, The T 
Sister Morphine T,TR 
Sooberb T 
Sooberb Lite T 
Thin Ice T,TR 
Think Quickly T 
Unbroken Chain T 
variation to Mail Ridge T,TR 
Warp Drive Overload S 
Who's Holding T 
Wind Tunnel T 
Zeros and Ones T 

Knife, The 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: T. Bubb, J. Meir, 11/03
New Route: Yes
Season: Gets PM sun on the arete
Page Views: 940
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 9, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Tony Bubb starts up on 'The Knife (5.7)' on the F....

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Knife refers to the feature on which we climbed. Some 15m to the SE (climber's right) of the crux roof pitch of Sooberb and 20' NW (climber's left) of the last pitch of Long John Wall is a sharp, knifeblade arete. This is the outside left edge of the left side of the final 'inset' pitch of Long John Wall, but it is climbed from the outside of the knife, not the inner side that is visible. The bottom overhang is split by a decent crack, but poor rock quality guards this from being lead without fear of life and limb. To the Left side (facing N/NW) is a dark, shaded face. Up this face, starting 4M from the ground is a system of flakes and cracks. These run up and left of the face for perhaps 10-12m before running out, just below and left of a good ledge on the arete. Climb this system with surprisingly solid rock and good/available protection to its end. Pop out right by grabbing a few flakes and then the knife-blade arete and stepping up onto the shelf on it. A small seam is at chest level and provides placement opportunity for a few good small nuts- then run up the arete to the top.

Both I and my partner were very pleasantly surprised by the quality and fun nature of this pitch. Two-stars. This is a good alternate finish to Sooberb or Long John Wall if a queue of people develops or if you get spanked off.

The route did not look as good as it was, and is somewhat obscured by other wall features, as well as superseded by other nearby classic pitches. I feel that it is as likely as not that this particular pitch has not previously been climbed.

Protection 

A set of nuts and cams to 2.5" plus a few very small nuts for the easy arete.


Photos of Knife, The Slideshow Add Photo
Joseffa has rounded the sharp arete on the mellow ...
Joseffa has rounded the sharp arete on the mellow ...
Joseffa near the finish of 'The Knife (5.7)'. Phot...
Joseffa near the finish of 'The Knife (5.7)'. Phot...

Comments on Knife, The Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -