Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Overly Hung Boulder
Select Route:
Knife In A Gun Fight 

Knife In A Gun Fight 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V7-8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 781
Submitted By: Mike Housiaux on Sep 22, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Ticks show route

Description 

Knife In A Gun Fight was made famous in the movie Friction Addiction : Black Hills Gold. Chuck Fryberger put up the first ascent and many still talk about his static dyno to the top. Start to the left corner holds are good. move up and then traverse over to the huge hold in the middle of the boulder. From here match your feet to gain upward progress. Hanging on tiny crystals towards the top dyno to the top. Top hold is good if caught right.


Location 

Park right by Rubiks Ridge and head away from it down the hill. Heading towards Turtle Dome you'll see this obvious boulder as it is the only monster one in the open.


Protection 

A few Crash Pads for sure and some spotters.



Comments on Knife In A Gun Fight Add Comment
Show which comments
By Greg Parker
Administrator
Sep 22, 2010

Christian Baird climbed this long before Chuck. Dave Asscherick, Christian and I were trying it from traversing in from the far left. None of us did the full sit version that day, but Christian did the stand up (same version shown in Friction Addiction).

By Brent Kertzman
From: Black Hills, SD
Sep 22, 2010

A couple of quick items:

1. Approach as for the Sledge Hammer & Turtle Dome.

2. The boulder is named "Overly Hung" and is just downhill a short distance northwest of the Sledge Hammer.

3. Rusty & Mike Lewis got the F.A. on the easier version in the later 1980's. The Lewis brothers toppled the sizeable flake that was perched precariously above and to the right.

4. I still have maps from all of the Pumpfests past that I compiled if anyone is interested. The maps have both boulder and route names.

By Joshua Dreher
From: Bremerton, WA
Sep 23, 2010

Interesting. I also assumed Chuck had received the FA. According to his 8a scorecard (under the name "q") he made the FA. Sometimes in the hills it's easy to assume that you are the first to do something but in reality it's been done before (personal experience). Did Christian have a name for the problem? If he did I think it should be refered to by the name he gave it.

By Mike Housiaux
Administrator
From: Rapid City
Sep 26, 2010

Agree with everyone it was just to my knowledge that Chuck did it but thanks for the info. Brent Thanks again for the info. Let me know. Great boulder and great problem.

By Mike Housiaux
Administrator
From: Rapid City
Sep 28, 2010

The first time I got on this. I also started from the far left and traversed over to where chuck started in F.A. Is it still graded the same i didn't think the traverse way was hard.

By Mike Housiaux
Administrator
From: Rapid City
Oct 4, 2010

Not sure I must have accidentally clicked it scrolling down.

By Mike Housiaux
Administrator
From: Rapid City
Oct 6, 2010

anyone know how or if its possible to move this information to the Overly Hunger Boulder?

By Greg Parker
Administrator
Oct 7, 2010

done.

By clay meier
Oct 9, 2012

dude. so gnarly. buttery sickness from bottom to top