There are two ways to start this route. One can begin at the bottom of the buttress and climb difficult friction past a bolt (5.10?) to a small ledge.
The other option is to bypass the difficult start and traverse in on the aforementioned ledge. This makes the climb about 5.8.
Whichever start you choose, there is a groundfall potential getting to the next (second) bolt.
After the second bolt, climb left of a prominent water streak past a third bolt then angle left to a fourth bolt and then up to a large pine tree with slings.
To descend, rappel 60-70' from the large pine tree with slings.
Note that there is a large buildup of pine needles at the base of this route. The height of these pine needles may play a major role in the difficulty of the initial slab moves.
This climb begins at the toe of the buttress about 40' right of Dig Those Moves.
Four quickdraws plus some small camming devices up to 1" to protect the climbing above the fourth bolt. A nut tool may be used to help excavate gear placements.
|Comments on Knee Jerk Reaction