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Jaclyn, 8, going all out.
This fierce-looking, obvious, wide crack which yields to a plethora of hidden edges and other aids. It can be top-roped from either summit, though the south is better for beginners.
If leading, rack to a # 4 Camalot, though you could get by without it. If top-roping, it might be nice to place a a larger cam high in the crack as a directional.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jul 8, 2001
Looks like a scary 5.6 to me. Not recommended and definitely not worth fighting for a parking spot in Twin Owls parking lot.~MF
|By Erik Corkran|
Jul 9, 2001
While I wouldn't drive all the way up there just to do this (and fight the parking, etc), it isn't a bad route. As mentioned, there are lots of hidden features inside the crack, and it protects with normal gear. I don't remember doing much of any actual offwidth technique, but it has been a while since I have done this route.
|By Chris Fisher|
Jul 9, 2001
Ouch! I did this route just a few days ago and still can't get it out of my head. I climbed the route on lead and fought it way too much. There wasn't a lot of offwidth technique that worked on the crack. I still have scratches on my back from reaching deep into the crack only to realize that there was a hidden hold just inside.
|By Anonymous Coward|
May 13, 2002
IMO, this route is rather hairy for a 5.6. As the name implies, near the top, if you slot your knee, you may never get it out again!
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jan 23, 2005
For years I'd wanna do this route. Steve wanted to do the 11a & 11c on the crag my 1st visit. Multiple others blew it off as "not worth it," but, it's fun & worth the effort. It is even climbable in a bit of blowing snow. It might even be nicer that way cuz you're all bundled up, so skimpy clothing might suck. 6 cams, #0.75 to #4 Camalot sized plus a red Alien worked. Tape is nice. Go left at top. Classic ego re-orienter. It is a nice combo with Tree Crack. Anyone left that bone there?
|By Mike C. Robinson|
From: Rumney, NH
Mar 18, 2007
If you're small like me, 5'3", offwidth technique will come into use. I climbed it in my sneakers and got fully worked. Definitely a work out for me making me want to throw up at the top. I can Cruz most low 10s (except the sandbags like Rosy Crucifixion) on trad, even in Lumpy, and this one works me every time. Then, my buddy, a larger guy, flew up the thing with out even reaching deep or using much off width technique. A fun climb and I certainly agree with Leo, a true ego check.
|By Aaron Martinuzzi|
Aug 21, 2008
"Classic ego re-orienter"? like Chris, I seriously fought with this route. A few weeks ago I had quite a pleasant run up Wolf's Tooth and found it much less taxing than this - very few foot holds outside the nasty flaring crack, and not too many rewarding handholds (jams or face), either. I'd never say this was harder than Wolf's, but I certainly had an easier time with that one.
|By John Korfmacher|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 26, 2012
There are some very nice, very solid handjams available in the back of the crack. OW technique needed only by those with small hands and/or short arms. I actually thought this was quite a fun pitch.
The bolt anchor at the top currently (as of March 2012) has some problems...one of the bolts is missing, and the remaining bolt is old and kinda weathered. It's also a spinner. The missing bolt either was removed or fell out (!). In any event, the anchor is poorly located. I'd recommend bringing a couple of fatty cams (#5 or bigger) and set a trad anchor about 3m below the top.