Knead Me
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 3 from 9 votes
Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Mike McEwan,, Dave Baker 1972 |
Page Views: | 3,702 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | John Peterson on Feb 4, 2006 |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
For the latest information, go to this link: fs.usda.gov/recarea/coronad…
Please take note of the request for climbers to avoid disturbing raptors if at all possible.
Self-policing our behavior is MUCH better than an outright ban!
CASA Page on Raptors for more information: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816.
Description
This is the wide crack system to the right of Abra. An interesting route but a very strenuous day and not for those afraid of chimney and offwidth climbing.
Pitch 1: climb the chimney to a belay at the bolts (5.8 R). This is hard to protect without big stuff (and perhaps not protectable even with it) but fairly secure.
Pitch 2: grunt up the crack above (5.10a). This is a little bit of everything - stemming, OW, fist.
Pitch 3: climb up to a bolt and tension traverse left (scary!) to a ledge. The bolt really should be replaced - if it fails the fall would be very nasty. The anchors on P2 are also in bad shape.
Pitches 4-6: join Abra in the cracks below the Friendly Flake.
4 Comments