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Knapping With The Alien 

5.12-

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
FA: Kyle Copeland, Linus Platt, 91
Season: Fall to early spring, eve
Submitted By: Brian Scoggins on May 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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Crux of Knapping with the Alien

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Description 

Fun crimps and mantles up an ever-so-slightly under vertical wall. Hard for short people. All the hard moves are at bolts, and/or from large ledges that you can safely land on if you miss. Good holds all the way.


Location 

OBVIOUS sport route on edges, about 50 yards right of Bad Moki Roof.


Protection 

5 drilled pins and chains



Photos of Knapping With The Alien Slideshow Add Photo
Kevin techin' out Knapping with the Alien

Kevin techin' out Knapping with the Alien

Perhaps the best part of this climb is belaying out of the truck....

Perhaps the best part of this climb is belaying ou...

First go at it.

First go at it.

Good shot of the line <br />January, 2011

Good shot of the line
January, 2011


This is where it gets hard for short people

This is where it gets hard for short people

Knapping is the face, Mother Trucker is the left facing corner to the right, unknown 5.12b follows the changing corner to the right.  Short but sweet!

BETA PHOTO: Knapping is the face, Mother Trucker is the left f...

Wallstreet - Knapping With The Alien

Wallstreet - Knapping With The Alien


Comments on Knapping With The Alien Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dane Casterson
From: Boulder
Oct 24, 2007

Any word on how that last pin before the anchors is fairing? Spring '07 it was getting a little wobbly.

By T_jones
From: Salty Lake
Apr 21, 2008

Great bolts spaced super close together when I climbed this yesterday...the crux was a little perplexing with so many different holds to choose from that were all pretty bad

By Greg D
From: Here
Jan 30, 2009
rating: 5.12-

All bolts were in fine condition as of fall 08.

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Mar 31, 2010
rating: 5.12a

All the bolts on this are fine as of march 2010. What a sweet little route! Good technical face climbing with some good rests to size up the crux moves before you go for it.

By Conor Raney
From: Pinedale, WY
Nov 1, 2010
rating: 5.12-

Loved this one!!! I love napping with aliens...no really, I do.

By Jikimika Dinglehoffer Merritt
From: Lander, Wy
Apr 12, 2011

Ok climb but watch the ledges around bolt 4, they can be in the path of a fall at the upper crux. Would be great but the feet are WAY too sandy to be doing technically demanding moves on.

By timothyrgriffen
May 4, 2012
rating: 5.11c/d

Not sure if I would call this thing 12a. It's Maybe 5.10 climbing to a v4-boulder problem. Closer to 11c.

By Skylar Smith
May 20, 2012

Excellent route. I would definently recommend this one. I think this is probably 5.11d.