Fun crimps and mantles up an ever-so-slightly under vertical wall. Hard for short people. All the hard moves are at bolts, and/or from large ledges that you can safely land on if you miss. Good holds all the way.
OBVIOUS sport route on edges, about 50 yards right of Bad Moki Roof.
5 drilled pins and chains
Good shot of the line
Kevin techin' out Knapping with the Alien
Crux of Knapping with the Alien
Perhaps the best part of this climb is belaying ou...
This is where it gets hard for short people
First go at it.
Wallstreet - Knapping With The Alien
|By Dane Casterson|
Oct 24, 2007
Any word on how that last pin before the anchors is fairing? Spring '07 it was getting a little wobbly.
From: Salty Lake
Apr 21, 2008
Great bolts spaced super close together when I climbed this yesterday...the crux was a little perplexing with so many different holds to choose from that were all pretty bad
|By Greg D|
Jan 30, 2009
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
All bolts were in fine condition as of fall 08.
|By Jay Samuelson|
From: Denver CO
Mar 31, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
All the bolts on this are fine as of march 2010. What a sweet little route! Good technical face climbing with some good rests to size up the crux moves before you go for it.
|By Conor Raney|
From: Pinedale, WY
Nov 1, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
Loved this one!!! I love napping with aliens...no really, I do.
|By Jikimika Dinglehoffer Merritt|
From: Lander, Wy
Apr 12, 2011
Ok climb but watch the ledges around bolt 4, they can be in the path of a fall at the upper crux. Would be great but the feet are WAY too sandy to be doing technically demanding moves on.
May 4, 2012
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
Not sure if I would call this thing 12a. It's Maybe 5.10 climbing to a v4-boulder problem. Closer to 11c.
|By Skylar Smith|
May 20, 2012
Excellent route. I would definently recommend this one. I think this is probably 5.11d.
Mar 13, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a PG13
The route is well bolted – the bolts are exactly where you need them and where the best clipping stances are – but I thought the second clip was kind of dicey. It's sort of mid-crux and you're far enough up and right of the first bolt that you could have a nasty fall onto the ledge if a foot slipped and your core strength gave out. Heads up for anyone unsure about leading the grade.
@ Timothy regarding the grade: V4 equates to 12a in most V-scale conversion tables I have seen. V3 is 11+, V2 is 11-, and V0 is 5.10; in my experience that's been pretty accurate.
I guess I'm bringing this up just because I am getting tired of the Moab sandbags and attitude. Call me a weakling, I don't care. I'm just saying that every time I climb around there, I feel an air of arrogance wafting from some locals who hover around the routes they have dialed, spray visitors down with unsolicited beta and then affirm that blahblahblah is really a full grade lower than what it says in the guidebook (if it even says it in the guidebook). I still climb the routes. I still think they're fun and I haven't cared enough to say anything until now, because this attitude is getting old. (This isn't necessarily directed at Tim; he just touched on a topic that set me off.)
As for me, when it comes to grading routes, I really try to give an honest opinion to help people choose appropriate climbs. Sometimes I get the distinct impression that a dirtbag is just trying to mash my ego down with his big dick, and this is me saying, I get it – your dick is huge. Now leave me alone to enjoy my climbing experience.
|By Jordan Hirro|
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Mar 27, 2014
Very very good route. 12- seems right to me... the v4 boulder problem at the top I think constitutes that. Have at her! Super good climbing!