BETA PHOTO: Knapping is the face, Mother Trucker is the left f...
Fun crimps and mantles up an ever-so-slightly under vertical wall. Hard for short people. All the hard moves are at bolts, and/or from large ledges that you can safely land on if you miss. Good holds all the way.
OBVIOUS sport route on edges, about 50 yards right of Bad Moki Roof.
Excellent route. I would definently recommend this one. I think this is probably 5.11d.
By D-Storm Mar 13, 2014 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a PG13
The route is well bolted – the bolts are exactly where you need them and where the best clipping stances are – but I thought the second clip was kind of dicey. It's sort of mid-crux and you're far enough up and right of the first bolt that you could have a nasty fall onto the ledge if a foot slipped and your core strength gave out. Heads up for anyone unsure about leading the grade.
@ Timothy regarding the grade: V4 equates to 12a in most V-scale conversion tables I have seen. V3 is 11+, V2 is 11-, and V0 is 5.10; in my experience that's been pretty accurate.
I guess I'm bringing this up just because I am getting tired of the Moab sandbags and attitude. Call me a weakling, I don't care. I'm just saying that every time I climb around there, I feel an air of arrogance wafting from some locals who hover around the routes they have dialed, spray visitors down with unsolicited beta and then affirm that blahblahblah is really a full grade lower than what it says in the guidebook (if it even says it in the guidebook). I still climb the routes. I still think they're fun and I haven't cared enough to say anything until now, because this attitude is getting old. (This isn't necessarily directed at Tim; he just touched on a topic that set me off.)
As for me, when it comes to grading routes, I really try to give an honest opinion to help people choose appropriate climbs. Sometimes I get the distinct impression that a dirtbag is just trying to mash my ego down with his big dick, and this is me saying, I get it – your dick is huge. Now leave me alone to enjoy my climbing experience.
By Jordan Hirro From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri Mar 27, 2014
Very very good route. 12- seems right to me... the v4 boulder problem at the top I think constitutes that. Have at her! Super good climbing!