|Type:||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 200'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Dave Larsen & Dennis Horning - 1983|
|Submitted By:||Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2002|
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|Comments on Klondike||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By John Gunnels
From: Gillette, WY
Apr 8, 2006
|Haven't done this route in years... but I remember it being quite unique. Better pro than I expected...|
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
May 27, 2008
|Great face climbing in a wonderful location on the North Face. The bolt spacing will keep you honest!|
From: Boulder, CO
May 26, 2009
While I hesitate to sandbag anyone on pro, I've led this twice and don't think it warrants anything like an R. I used double ropes both times, which were very useful. Only thing that seemed maybe dicey was getting to first bolt--I put a #2 Camalot in crack to the left of the bolt (as well as pro directly below). It's not a gym climb but I didn't at all have the feeling that falling was not an option on the climb, and I think the difficult moves were very well protected (and could be easily french freed).
I used a yellow alien higher on the route--probably not necessary but seemed useful. Otherwise gear up to #2 Camalot for use below the bolts.
By Brian Scoggins
From: Boise, ID
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
|I felt that the anchor was in a just creaky enough spot that you might want some pro, but a .75 camalot fits in the crack just below it. We packed doubles from blue alien up to .75, and singles of 1 and 2 camalots, and were pretty well protected. A double set of nuts might be worthwhile, but be sure to bring enough slings, otherwise the rope drag (in addition to the weight of 200 feet of rope) will be murder at the top. Probably not R rated, but it can feel that way in spots.|