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North Face & Northwest Corner
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Friend of the Devil 
Klondike T,S 
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Whine and Bruises T 

Klondike 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dave Larsen & Dennis Horning - 1983
Page Views: 1,483
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Bret is entering the fun face section on Klondike.

Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Are all Devil's Tower face climbs this good??? Klondike is one long pitch of excellent face climbing on super postitive holds. Technically speaking this climb is run-out to the first bolt, but I found enough gear on the way up to feel secure. However, this is no gym climb: expect 15' stretches between bolts.

It begins a ways around the tower from the Everlasting column, just right of a crack with a chockstone and just left of a series of three progressively smaller roofs.

There are two difficult moves, but the true crux is about mid-way up the climb. It comes at a very difficult (for the grade) high step and reach to an obvious undercling (this is actually a one-foot in diameter, shallow hueco). Hint: I'm not going to tell you how to do the move, but I will say it is easier to rest standing in this hueco as opposed to underclinging it.

The climb is phenominal - it is long but I just didn't want it to end.

Protection 

Bring small gear: wires through 1.5" cams. 5 or 6 bolts protect the upper half of the climb.


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By John Gunnels
From: Gillette, WY
Apr 8, 2006

Haven't done this route in years... but I remember it being quite unique. Better pro than I expected...
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
May 27, 2008

Great face climbing in a wonderful location on the North Face. The bolt spacing will keep you honest!
By pfwein
May 26, 2009

While I hesitate to sandbag anyone on pro, I've led this twice and don't think it warrants anything like an R. I used double ropes both times, which were very useful. Only thing that seemed maybe dicey was getting to first bolt--I put a #2 Camalot in crack to the left of the bolt (as well as pro directly below). It's not a gym climb but I didn't at all have the feeling that falling was not an option on the climb, and I think the difficult moves were very well protected (and could be easily french freed).
I used a yellow alien higher on the route--probably not necessary but seemed useful. Otherwise gear up to #2 Camalot for use below the bolts.
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

I felt that the anchor was in a just creaky enough spot that you might want some pro, but a .75 camalot fits in the crack just below it. We packed doubles from blue alien up to .75, and singles of 1 and 2 camalots, and were pretty well protected. A double set of nuts might be worthwhile, but be sure to bring enough slings, otherwise the rope drag (in addition to the weight of 200 feet of rope) will be murder at the top. Probably not R rated, but it can feel that way in spots.