Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft (61 m)
FA: Dave Larsen & Dennis Horning - 1983
Page Views: 3,843 total · 15/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 20, 2002
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route


33 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

Are all Devil's Tower face climbs this good??? Klondike is one long pitch of excellent face climbing on super postitive holds. Technically speaking this climb is run-out to the first bolt, but I found enough gear on the way up to feel secure. However, this is no gym climb: expect 15' stretches between bolts.

It begins a ways around the tower from the Everlasting column, just right of a crack with a chockstone and just left of a series of three progressively smaller roofs.

There are two difficult moves, but the true crux is about mid-way up the climb. It comes at a very difficult (for the grade) high step and reach to an obvious undercling (this is actually a one-foot in diameter, shallow hueco). Hint: I'm not going to tell you how to do the move, but I will say it is easier to rest standing in this hueco as opposed to underclinging it.

The climb is phenominal - it is long but I just didn't want it to end.

Protection Suggest change

Bring small gear: wires through 1.5" cams. 5 or 6 bolts protect the upper half of the climb.

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