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Redgarden - Roof Routes
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Kloeberdanz 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 220'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: [FA L Kor & L Dalke , 1963. FFA (all pitches) S Wunsch and J Erickson, 1974]
Fixed Hardware: 4 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 3,601
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 28, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Steve Wunsch on the third pitch of the Kloeberdanz...

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  • Description 

    Approach as per T2 or Guenese. Just up and left of Jules Verne and T2, or just down and right of Guenese is the lower terminus of the higher roof among the roof routes. The roof is some 40 off of the deck and runs parallel to the ground. A the terminus it bends upward as it rises to the right. Just to the left of the bend in the roof you will see a single both and 3 very well chalked holds. One is a bucket, the others are small.

    P1. Start climbing a crack on the lower left, past a few good stopper placements (strongly advised to keep the rope out of your way). Continue up toward the left side of the bolted roof, clipping a fixed pin on the left as well. Again, this keeps you out of the rope when leading the roof. You can pop a red tricam in an old angle pin scar just above this. The squeamish can also place a cam in a hand jam with a long sling just before starting the roof. The crack is full of guano, however.

    Start off across the roof, clip the good bolt, and shoot hard through small holds to a huge hold to the right of the roof. Establish yourself on the far side and go up to clip a pin- and back it up.

    Make a few more tricky moves going up and right to reach chains on 2 good bolts. Most people do not climb further, although there are 2 more pitches (5.10b and 5.9?). I've seen this route rated anywhere between 5.11a and 5.11d. My own personal experience here leads me toward the harder end of that range. The crux is a big move from small holds. Reach and forearms are the keys to this 3-move wander. Bouldering fans might make short work of it, while short people with no forearms might flail helplessly. My experience was somewhere between.

    P2. TBA Per B. Wright: "The second pitch is 10c and had some lichen on it and maybe a touch of water (this was a couple of years ago, but I suspect things are pretty much the same)."

    P3. TBA Per B. Wright: "The third pitch is 5.9 S+. This is a great, exciting pitch that demands classic Eldo nut fiddling from semi-bad stances and a cool head."

    Protection 

    For pitch 1: a few stoppers to get to the roof, a good red tricam in a pin-scar or hand-sized cam (if you spook easily) before the roof, a bolt at the roof. After the crux, there is a bad fixed pin with opportunity to back it up on a 1.5" cam and some nuts later on. The last few moves to the chain are easy, but if you don't place the right gear, somewhat runout. I know nothing of P2 or P3. Can someone post a correction to add the info? If not, I'll do it after climbing them...


    Photos of Kloeberdanz Slideshow Add Photo
    Jim Erickson attempting to follow the roof (lead e...
    Jim Erickson attempting to follow the roof (lead e...
    Old shot with a different perspective.
    Old shot with a different perspective.
    Kloeberdanz circa 1977. I think it's Clay Sanford ...
    Kloeberdanz circa 1977. I think it's Clay Sanford ...
     An old "Climbing" mag from my archive.
    An old "Climbing" mag from my archive.
    Here is the Breashear's heel hook, static move met...
    Here is the Breashear's heel hook, static move met...
    Kloberdanz Roof, circa 1978.
    Kloberdanz Roof, circa 1978.

    Comments on Kloeberdanz Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 25, 2014
    By stephen sangdahl
    Sep 30, 2002

    ...the upper pitches are worth doing.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Oct 2, 2002

    ...Dave Breashears was the first one to cross and use a heel hook. How is that for a interesting bit of trivia?
    By Tony
    Oct 2, 2002

    I've read Barber in some places, Wunsch in others... and someone tried to convince me that it was Breashears, but I know the story on that one a bit better- it wasn't David Breashears... although he was the one to do it statically first. That's why I didn't specify on the FA on this one- frankly, I'm not sure what to believe.
    By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
    Jun 23, 2003

    I can't believe there is even a question over who did this first ! Here's the photo from my archive of "Climbing" with Steve on an article about his first ascent. I used to go down there every week to gun for the 2-3 ascent until the "Kid" pulled the carpet from under our feet !!
    By Bill Wright
    Jun 24, 2003
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    I think this route is way hard. I couldn't do this move and didn't really even get close to doing it. This type of move isn't my strength, though. Fortunately, you can still lead the route by just swinging over on the bolt. My partner, a semi-famous local, solid 5.12 climber, fell off it while following, so I think the move is pretty dang hard.

    The climbing above the lip is pretty dicey (but well protected) face climbing (10-) to the anchors.

    We did the second and third pitches as well and I'd recommend them as a fun adventure. The second pitch is 10c and had some lichen on it and maybe a touch of water (this was a couple of years ago, but I suspect things are pretty much the same).

    The third pitch is 5.9 S+. This is a great, exciting pitch that demands classic Eldo nut fiddling from semi-bad stances and a cool head.

    Bill

    I don't think this is a "great" route, so I can't give it two stars. This is a good route, though.
    By Mike Storeim
    From: Evergreen, CO
    Jun 24, 2003

    I've done this route several times, the first time in 1975 and the last in 1996. Maybe it's just my advancing age and a few extra pounds that made it feel harder, but I think that a piece of the crimper in the middle of the roof broke and is smaller than it used to be. It's definitely not as positive as it used to be.

    Good idea to back up the pin after you clear the roof. Believe me.

    In my opinion, the second and third pitches are the real reason to do this route, not the roof. They don't get done much and are a bit crusty in places. I think that the third pitch is a bit of a sandbag at 5.9, but you can decide that for yourself.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Dec 8, 2003

    Other than the route of this Name in Eldo and also one in Yosemite, I believe, I can't find reference to what this word means. The one song by this title is an instrumental by Belcanto's White Out conditions LP. Can anyone shed light on the meaning?
    By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
    Dec 8, 2003

    If I can remember right in my advancing years, Kor was a "hoddy" at a masonry company named "Kloeber Mason's " (or something very close).
    By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
    Dec 8, 2003

    Got it here Tony ,"Kloberdanz Construction Company", Kor was taking odd and end jobs to supply his climbing habit and at the time he did this route, was working for them.
    By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
    Dec 8, 2003

    You mean the Mag. that's in my photo below? I've still got Climbing Nov/Dec '72; now that's a classic!
    By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
    Dec 8, 2003

    Re: Bob's and my exchange. I posted a lot of trivia to Tony that got ended up in "other comments" for some reason at the bottom of the page.
    By L. Hamilton
    May 25, 2004

    Advancing the historical discussion...I've posted the original photo of Steve Wunsch on the 1974 FFA below, next to Dave Bohn's scan from Climbing. Also, a second photo showing Jim Erickson following the crux (unsuccessfully) on the FFA.
    By ac
    May 26, 2004

    Does anyone know why Steve Wunsch quit climbing? Near-death experience? Better to burn-out than fade away?
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 26, 2004

    Kor worked for the Kloberdanz family in the '60s. They owned a brick or cement company. He told me he liked the name and used it for this route. They may still be in the Yellow Pages.
    By Rob Mullen
    Jul 26, 2004

    I believe Kloeberdanz is a now extinct traditional German folk dance, literally translated it means "sick dog roof dancing."
    By Anonymous Coward
    Sep 13, 2004

    There's nothing like a little German Folk Dancing to really spice up a party!
    By Bob Rotert
    Aug 29, 2006

    This one can be hard to decipher and that can make a big difference. I agree with Mike Storeim's comment that this route feels much harder today than it did in the mid 70s & 80s, and perhaps the crimper holds in the middle are not as positive as they used to be. But, for me, all routes feel harder now than they did back then. So, I'm not totally sure if it's the holds or just my advancing weight & declining strength. Any other Grey Hairs out there that have done this one lately care to comment on that? Chris A?
    By Kirk Woerner
    Aug 3, 2010

    Saying "Reach and forearms are the keys to this 3-move wonder." is an understatement. A very short, powerful reachy crux.
    By KCP
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Aug 25, 2014
    rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

    I seem to recall the original rating clocking in at 11- or thereabouts. That felt about accurate to me. The heel hook makes everything pretty reasonable.