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 ADVANCED
Gibraltar Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Any Minute Now T 
Broken Mirror S 
Crank Start S 
Inner Tube Toes TR 
Jabberwocky  S 
Klingon T 
Ladder, The T 
Mid-Face T 
Nose, The T,TR 
Sea of Holes T,TR 
Self Reflection T,S 
Shard, The S 
T-Crack T,TR 
Variation of the Midface T,TR 

Klingon 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown (pre-1960)
Page Views: 1,490
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Diego Navarro has a crux encounter with "Klingon" ...

Description 

This route pulls through the large alcove and overhang on the left-hand side of the main Gibraltar formation.

Start next to "the Nose." Climb a crack to a large alcove. The crux of the route climbs the steep face left of the corner. The corner itself is very off-width and very hard. Pull the roof on the left side for full-value or bypass the roof to the right.

The middle of the route is marked by a large ledge. A second crux is pulling up off of the ledge onto tiny face holds (5.8/5.9). From here, runout face climbing (5.6) leads to the top of the formation.

When top-roping, be very careful. The route is almost exactly 100 feet long and the base of the cliff falls away on one side.

Protection 

Gear (tiny to 4"). The top of the route is protected by a single bolt and either medium sized gear or a slung boulder.

Update: On July 6, 2006, the anchor bolt atop this route was replaced. The new bolt is a 13mm Fixe Triplex expansion bolt.


Photos of Klingon Slideshow Add Photo
Simone nears the end of the crux sequence of "Klingon."
Simone nears the end of the crux sequence of "Klin...

Comments on Klingon Add Comment
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By Prezwoodz
From: Anchorage, Alaska
Nov 29, 2008

Climbed the offwidth crack portion on upper area which you list as very hard. I didn't think it was too hard. Probably 10b or so. Big cam to protect the crux but its not really to bad and I thought it was one of the more enjoyable sections of the climb pulling out through the roof.
By Isaac T.
From: Rockville, MD
Mar 29, 2009

Seems a little odd to only put one bolt at the anchors no matter how bomber... Either way thank you Matthew for taking the initiative to replace many of the anchors and bolts in the area.
By Evan1984
Nov 2, 2009

There are ample opportunities to sling things and place gear to back up the bolt. I always bring some long pieces of webbing to setting up Tr at Gibraltar
By Richard Shore
May 20, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

bring a #4 camalot to protect the crux. The OW corner is a grunt, even if only a few moves long.
By Aaron Metchik
Dec 5, 2012

question. Why do you say when top roping be very careful because the climb is 100 feet long and cliff falls away on 1 side? Are you saying we could fall on the wrong side of the rock and be dangling too far away from the rock to get back on?
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Dec 6, 2012

I think Matt means that the belaying ledge falls away BEHIND the belayer (depends on where you're belaying from). If you're not careful when lowering your partner to the ground, there could be a tumble. When climbing the route, there's no serious swing for the climber that I can remember. It's all in the vertical-to-off-vertical angle.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Dec 10, 2012

Sorry for not being more clear. As Andy indicates, when top-rope belaying from the base of the route, you could lower the climber off the end of the rope and drop them down Gibraltar Gully.