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The Bookmark
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37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The 
Between The Sheets 
Bookmark OW 
Cave Route 
Coleman's Complex 
Crack of No Return 
Dead in Bed 
East Side 
Fall Out 
Fantasy Ridge 
Goose, The 
Inside Straight 
Joy and Tribulation 
Klingon (with direct start) 
Manhole Cover 
Marginal Line 
Original Fantasy Ridge 
Penis Chimney 
Plan A 
Rhythm Method 
Romulan Territory 
Screamin' Eagles 
Seams Like A Dream 
Son of a Pitch 
Star Trek 
Time Machine 
Twiggy's Crack 
Virgin Spring 
Wigglin' Fingies 
Unsorted Routes:

Klingon (with direct start) 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,716
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Apr 12, 2002
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The direct start begins just left of Backflip's initial, right-facing dihedral, called Bellyflop, 5.10c, in a dead end crack. Step left and faceclimb past 5 new 3/8" bolts (5.10c and a bit spicy above 3rd bolt) to a belay ledge with bolted anchors. Run the pitch out to Library Ledge and belay below Romulan Territority.

P2 - Up that route for 50' then right along a horizontal flake. Directly up a crack marked by a small pine tree then a thin but well protected right facing flake (crux) to a belay on a small foot stance.

P3 - Finish on the mostly wide but nice third pitch of Star Trek. Without the direct start, which was put up in 2001 by CMS guides, the route is 5.10a and still very good, easier then Romulan Territority (which is more like 5.10 b/c). Walk off to the east around the Bookmark Pinnacle.


Full selection with many small to midsize stoppers.

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By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
May 6, 2008

Linking the Romulan start into the Klingon finish is a great pitch. The 5.10 lieback section is straightforward, and not as hard as it looks from the ground. I think the technical crux is still shared with Romulan Territory. The endurance crux is the 40ft section of liebacking off of crisp edges at the end of the pitch. Extra sm-med nuts and cams from 0.3-1 are helpful.