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> Farmington Crag
Klingon Arete
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.8 from 4
votes
Routes in Farmington Crag
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137 lbs of Fury T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Basket Case TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Batman Surprise TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Butt Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Cool Air T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Eagle Chimney T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Eagle's Face T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Eagle's Wing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Era of Tara, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Every woman has her charm. TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Humble Beginnings T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Klingon Arete TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nano Pitch TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Repent Now or Die TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ryan in a Bikini T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Suck it Up Princess S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,025 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Jun 4, 2010 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
Remember the Star Trek: The Next Generation episode where Worf sustains a spinal injury and needs a new spine? Well, this ridge reminded me of that episode, and so that's why I'm calling it the Klingon Arete. The ridge has some Klingon spinal features, especially near the top.
This ridge appears to have a number of interesting exits near the top. I took the easiest one. The others looked interesting as they were a bit over-hanging.
This ridge appears to have a number of interesting exits near the top. I took the easiest one. The others looked interesting as they were a bit over-hanging.
Protection
There is no official anchor for this climb. As the pictures will show, I used the anchors for Batman Surprise, and then used another anchor near the top of the climb as a direcitional. It also acted as a backup anchor, which is good too, because this also reduced any additional stretch added to the system between the primary and secondary anchors.
My setup was for a fixed line, so I'm not sure how you could easily top-rope this climb. I'm sure it could be lead on gear as a trad-climb. There appeared to be many opportunities to place gear along the way.
My setup was for a fixed line, so I'm not sure how you could easily top-rope this climb. I'm sure it could be lead on gear as a trad-climb. There appeared to be many opportunities to place gear along the way.
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