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The Quarry Wall
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Frank's Tame Years 
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Kleptocracy 
Koolaid 
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Unsorted Routes:

Kleptocracy 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Josh Gross, Mark Rolofson
New Route: Yes
Season: All
Page Views: 3,266
Submitted By: Josh Gross on Jan 12, 2009
Good Page? 2 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Photo by Scott Clark, at www.dscottclarkpho...

Description 

Stick clip first bolt, this is a very unique route, it has a cool arete section leads to jugs through a bulge followed by a thin move to reach upper roof. Next comes an Inspector Gadget crux (long move), finish this one off with a tweaky move to the anchor. Mark Rolofson's years of route development shine through this masterpiece.


Location 

Kleptocracy is located right of "Bone Crusher".


Protection 

10 bolts.



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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From: Golden, CO
Feb 15, 2009

Is this really harder than Bone Crusher? If so, good job.

By blakeherrington
Dec 6, 2011
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ E7 6c

I never redpointed this one before moving away, so I guess my vote is invalid, but this route was a lot of fun to work on and features a really amazing dynamic crux move that I seldom stuck. It sure seemed hard as compared to other ".12d" routes in the area, but I don't have much power for moves like that. Regardless of the grade, it's a great pitch and seems pretty overlooked.

By Taylor Roy
From: Boulder, Co
Dec 13, 2011
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

Great route. Felt like 12c vertical climbing to a huge V5 lunge and then some 11+ slab to the top on flaky rock. I am 5'8" and can barely stick the lunge. So if you are much shorter than me, this might not be the best route for you.

By mlloyd
From: denver
Dec 26, 2011
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

This route is hard and fun, it has interesting movement separated by technical climbing rarely found on Front Range 5.13 sport climbing, the end of the route is the only drawback, the rock is loose and exfoliating and dares you to pull on edges that will in fact send you flying. J-tree tradsters and Yosemite slabmasters will find this route easier than your Rifle crusher due to the complete lack of the crank and dangle.