This area is PACKED with hard climbing. On both sides of the road are fantastic crags with fantastic, typical Frankenjura climbing. This description gets you to the parking. From there, follow the specific area descriptions to find your desired crag. And when you get here, don't panic if there are a ton of cars. There's more climbing here than parking spaces, and if there are too many people at your desired crag, walk 2 minutes to the next and you may find yourself alone there.
Get on the A70 to reach a point between Bamberg and Bayreuth. Exit at Stadelhofen and head in the direction of Kleinziegenfeld. From Kleinziegenfeld, head in the direction of Weismain and park on the right side of the road 700m after the sign indicating you're leaving Kleinziegenfeld. The GPS coordinates point to this parking area.
This is the steepest route I have ever done, and with the biggest holds. Starts close to the corner and climbs diagonally up and left through the enormous, unbelievably juggy pockets....[more]Browse More Classics in International