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Tower Two
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Chill, The S 
Cave Man T 
Deja Vu S 
Desp-ArÍte S 
Falcon Corner T 
From Trilobites to Lycra Tights T,S 
Fryable T 
Insane in the Brain S 
Klein's Girls T 
Not Bosched Up T 
Radiation Babies S 
Shadow, The T 
Social Realism T 
Whiskey and Weed Power S 

Klein's Girls 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dave Medara & Pat Mcinerny 1990
Page Views: 337
Submitted By: Boissal on Sep 22, 2008

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GRK slabbing his way up the dihedral on Klein's Gi...

Park your car off of the main canyon road.

Description (top) 

Klein's Girls is another one of the few gear routes at HelmetGate. And like the others it looks like an unprotected loose pile until you stand below it or rap past it and notice how good the gear is and how sweet the line looks...

Climb a pocketed slab for about 30' to reach a thin crack. The book says a 3 1/2" cam can be used as pro in a pod, other thin options are present. From there the angle steepens and a bolt appears. Stem, crimp and moan your way up the thinning crack to a final mantle on a ramp.

Location 

KG sits on the left (west) edge of Tower 2 next to the Shooting Alley. It follows an obvious crack to a dark alcove about 60' up. It's maybe 30' left of Deja Vu and shares anchors with The Shadow. Which you should do btw...

Protection - OMG it's not a clip up yur gonna die!! 

1 bolt and gear from tiny cams to #3 BD. Maybe the recommended 3.5 for the pod down low - if you can find it. A BD #1.5 (what's that in Friends' size?) would fit the obvious pocket. Rappel off 1 bolt with chain and 1 fixed nut with tat.


Photos of Klein's Girls Slideshow Add Photo
Negotiating the thin crux on Klein's Girls
Negotiating the thin crux on Klein's Girls

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