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|Park your car off of the main canyon road.|
Klein's Girls is another one of the few gear routes at HelmetGate. And like the others it looks like an unprotected loose pile until you stand below it or rap past it and notice how good the gear is and how sweet the line looks...
Climb a pocketed slab for about 30' to reach a thin crack. The book says a 3 1/2" cam can be used as pro in a pod, other thin options are present. From there the angle steepens and a bolt appears. Stem, crimp and moan your way up the thinning crack to a final mantle on a ramp.
KG sits on the left (west) edge of Tower 2 next to the Shooting Alley. It follows an obvious crack to a dark alcove about 60' up. It's maybe 30' left of Deja Vu and shares anchors with The Shadow. Which you should do btw...
Protection - OMG it's not a clip up yur gonna die!!
1 bolt and gear from tiny cams to #3 BD. Maybe the recommended 3.5 for the pod down low - if you can find it. A BD #1.5 (what's that in Friends' size?) would fit the obvious pocket. Rappel off 1 bolt with chain and 1 fixed nut with tat.
Negotiating the thin crux on Klein's Girls
|Comments on Klein's Girls
|By Landon McBrayer|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 10, 2013
Decent gear route. The climbing up to the bolt is 5.9-ish with touchy gear. You can protect in a few pods (if you have the right cams). A #2 C4 fits perfectly in the pod below the crux, and its thin gear from there.