This is a very popular place for pleasure climbers and beginners. As a result, I have one word to say: polished! Having said that, I climbed only 4 routes here, two of which were the only two in this entire area with stars (the climbing guide here only uses 3 stars, so most routes don't have a star on them anyway). All of the routes had some polish on them, but to varying degrees. The one with 3 stars (classic) was the most polished and by far the least fun, in my opinion. Access can get a little confusing so follow the directions carefully. You can see the rock from the train station, which in turns means you get a great view over the valley when you climb to the top of the routes here. It's really beautiful. Bring a camera if you choose to climb here.
By train: Take the train from Erlangen or Nürnberg traveling in the direction of Bayreuth through Neuhaus, and get off in Vorra. Walk south from the train station until you run into the main road through town. Right after the road crosses a bridge over a little river, there is a sharp left turn and a road which goes uphill on your right (Hirschbacher Straße). Take this road uphill and continue walking straight until you see a field on your left and watch for a little road (it looks private) on the left which is called "Oberer Höhenweg". Walk down this road a short way and you'll be able to see a path leading up to the rock. It's about a 15 or 20 minute walk with the train.
4 Total Routes
Featured Route For Kleine Wacht (little watch)
This route has 3 stars in the guidebook, indicating it as a classic. I think it's crap because it's so polished, but maybe I'm just being malcontent. It was interesting, but a classic is a bit much. Anyway, climb up to the left of the chimney and enjoy the large holds. There are a few slightly overhanging sections you'll have to negotiate. Enjoy the beautiful view above....[more] Browse More Classics in International
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