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Shannon Falls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beaten Zone, The S 
Cardhu Crack T 
Chewbacca T 
Dirty Dicky T 
Ghille Suit S 
Hungry Wolf T 
Hunters Moon T 
Klahanie Crack T 
Local Boys Do Good T,S 
Man of Leisure T,S 
Never Say Never T 
Petra S 
Poultry in Motion T 
Relish Route, The S 
Shortcut S 
Skywalker T 
Split Decision T 
Urine too Deep T 

Klahanie Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 9,619
Submitted By: BenCooper on Apr 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (118)
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Winnie moving up Klahanie


Very nice handjamming the entire way. One of the best cracks I have ever climbed. Pro is good, bring a 60m rope.


The obvious crack to the right of 'local boys do good.' The approach is from Shannon Falls parking lot. Hike up the trail towards the falls until you see a large log that spans the width of the creek to your right. Cross the log and rock hop across to gain access to the steep trail that leads directly to the routes.


Rack: set of nuts, many cams from Camalot .5 to 2. Two bolt anchor at top.

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By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
May 24, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Approach (update): cross south on the new bridge (the one you took to get into the parking lot). Several paces beyond, there is a trail that leads up into the trees, next to a sign. Follow this. The trail will go up and up, and then descend to cross a minor drainage (footbridge), and then climb again.
Aug 15, 2011

Good luck not giggling your way up this crack ...!
By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun and easy, low angle with tons of placements. Great for beginner trad leaders to feel solid on.
By Jtetzlaff
Jun 17, 2013

Shannon Falls, Klahanie crack area. There is a nice concentration of climbs close together.
I ,TRd a slab between Klahanie using K anchors and a bolt from Split Decision,
A new climb ?, or an old TR problem? I hope no one bolts it as it would be a bit cramped.
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Jun 27, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Hilariously secure climbing, you can just cruise on this thing. Thinner than it looks from the ground. You could place some #2 or #3 Camalots if you wanted in those pods, but I found if there's a pod at your face you might as well climb a bit higher so your foot's in it, and place from there. I've found a rack of 2 .5s, 2 .75s and 1 #1 Camalot is sufficient.

Also, if your rack is slim and your fear is high you should know that the back of the crack often accepts smaller cams, and you can definitely place big bomber nuts too if that's your thing.
By shoo
Apr 2, 2014

As mentioned, thinner than it looks. .75s for most of it, but it'll take a variety of gear.

This might be the most overrated route in Squamish. It's just kinda meh. The feature is cool, but it's just not very much fun. Too low angle to be engaging.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jul 21, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

shoo....Klahanie Crack maybe too low angle for you, but 54 others have given it **** (4 stars), so it must be fairly fun and engaging. More than "meh."
By David Dennis
From: Central California
Jul 24, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

What a beautiful, easy crack. Perfect to teach hands/tight hands.
By Sam Keller
Aug 31, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I protected this route with 4 tricams and a hex. Made it super fun. I would call it the only way to climb Klahanie ;)
By climber57
Nov 4, 2014

agreed, 3-4 pieces is all thats needed for this ridiculously secure hand crack
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