Here is another route where I'm not sure of the name. There is only one discernable route between Kool Cat and Tender Vittles on the Cat Wall and this is it. The book describes it as a 140ft. corner with mostly big hands. In actuality it's about 95 ft. and starts out as thin fingers liebacking to a facehold/stance followed by some pods and flares that are wide in places, but certainly not "mostly wide hands". I'm sure someone can tell what this is, or confirm a mistake in the guide. Anyway, this pitch is well worth doing, however, the anchor slings are in need of being replaced pretty badly. Might feel like .10+ at the start, which is sustained for 30 or 40 ft. A 60 meter will get you down fine.
.4/.5 in. for the start followed by several from 2-4 in. mostly hand sized.
|By Chris Dawson|
From: Denver, CO
Oct 14, 2002
The slings at the anchor have been replaced on 10.12.02
|By Max Schon|
Nov 11, 2003
I'd say the start is definitely 5.11-, but most of the climb is 5.10.
|By Kirk Woerner|
May 3, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
This route is hard, especially for large fingers. I'd call it 5.11- (Compare it to Coyne Crack Simulator for example). It's 20 feet of hard thin finger laybacking before it eases up.
|By Rob Dillon|
May 13, 2004
Two stars is generous for this one, considering the nearby competition on the best crag in the universe.
|By chris Kalous|
Nov 17, 2006
This route has new anchors as of Nov 2006, courtesy of Climbing Magazines ARI program.
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
Mar 28, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Bottom Kicked my butt as a warm up. The rest was varied and fun.
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 28, 2011
I don't know why people are bagging on this climb. It's pretty good in my mind. Thin fingers start followed by various sizes of a corner crack, including some wide pods. Definitely worth doing. I could understand if people called it 11- but 10+ is also quite reasonable since there are plenty of feet at the start.
From: Black Hawk, CO
Nov 14, 2013
"The book describes it as a 140ft. corner with mostly big hands. In actuality it's about 95 ft. and starts out as thin fingers liebacking to a facehold/stance followed by some pods and flares that are wide in places, "
The more I try to use Blooms books, the more I realize how little he must have actually even looked at the crags.
|By Devin Fin|
Nov 14, 2013
yea Dr Bloom,s book fucked the creek with disinformation ....
|By Princess Mia|
Nov 16, 2013
Great route! But yeah the bottom totally spanked me…… I give the start 11- even for little hands……
And I ditto Devin's remark above!!!