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Kitty Litter Pillar 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Chris Graham & Bob Ahearn
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 405
Submitted By: Chris Graham on Sep 18, 2010

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Grammy sussing out the gear on the delicate but fu...

Description 

• Pitch 1: Climb easily but cautiously at the start of a steep buttress (good gear placements can be found behind the flakes to the left). continue up to the top of the buttress (either slinging the pillar or opting for a large cam placement on the right) to the start of a beautiful and obvious black streak with impeccable face climbing. One bolt protects the crux moves near the top!


Location 

Directions:  To find this route, walk west along the stream bed, which comes from the cirque just south of Humphrey's Ledge. When you are about 100 yards from the West Side Road the stream valley is fairly flat. When it starts to get steeper, turn right (north) up a short talus slope. Find an eight-foot high corner with a 30í pillar to its left. There is also a newly established path that leads past Wabi Sabi Way and along the bottom of the cliff. The path is loose and gravelly and care should be taken if you choose this route.

Description: located 30' right of Lost Canadian, locate a "somewhat" crumbly buttress with beautiful black streak above. Despite the relatively loose looking quality of the start, the upper portion of the climb is not to be missed and offers 35’ of some of the best steep face climbing that Humphrey’s has to offer.

Descent: rappel the route with 1 rope. 


Protection 

Gear: 1 bolt near the top, standard rack with several small cams (#00 TCU up to a size 3.5). don't leave the Tri-cams at home as there are several opportunities to place them along the way. One bolt at 3/4 height protects the crux moves to a nice horizontal to a two bolt anchor at the top.



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Grammy making the moves up to the business...30' of impeccable face climbing on black rock!
Grammy making the moves up to the business...30' o...
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By Chris Graham
From: Bartlett, NH
Apr 14, 2014

This route is somewhat off by itself and sees only a handful of ascents per season. Despite the heady (but well protected start) this really is a worthwhile little climb with wonderful steep moves on gear. One bolt at 3/4 height is a relief and protects the crux moves up to a great stance to get more gear in.