If you happen to be looking for an excellent, exposed and interesting crack climb at chimney rocks, look no further! Everything from fingers to OW with a funny cliffhanger finish, but beware, it's hard for 10d.
P1: Head up to the crack in the block, then climb from fingers to hands to off-width until you reach a ledge with a single bolt that can be backed up with small nuts (10c).
P2: Climb above the bolt and traverse left around the corner until you're at a finger crack. This part is super exposed, don't look down! Follow the finger crack up and eventually exit right into an alcove with large crystals (10d+).
P3: Climb up out of the crystal chimney into an OW. The OW turns into a great hand crack for a while and eventually you head right around the corner until you reach a decent belay ledge (10b)
P4: Follow the obvious crack system up and right to a corner where you follow the corner up, over a chockstone (use cliffhanger hang for bonus poins), and belay once you can see over the other side (5.9).
Go down the loose gully between chimney spire and chimney rock until you see a very obvious clean crack in a block low on the spire.
Doubles to #4, and I think we had a #5 along (#5 not necessary, see comment). Set of nuts.
BETA PHOTO: Something like that. I hope Dave Hickey will forg...
By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 14, 2013
Herb Laeger and I did this eons ago along with a number of other routes in the area. Love that place.
Eric Rhicard. Note spelling.
By Chris I
From: Fresno, CA
Sep 16, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
This route is outstanding. Sustained and varied climbing, good pro (until some sections of P4), and total solitude. The rack recommendation here is spot on, minus the 5. My buddy and I had 1 BD 4 and a BD 5 and found out the hard way that we needed 2 4's and no 5. Pitch 3 is about 40-50 of #3 and #4 sized crack, so make sure you have a couple of each. Despite a little lichen here and there, the quality of this route was surprising. The descent is via two bolted rappels (maybe three with a 60m, we had a 70m), the first one starting right next to the summit registry and the last one from a ledge on the back side of the formation.