Yet another Index classic, first pitch follows various features to a slab section(11a), then jugs to the top...excellent climbing. The second pitch goes straight up from the anchors, through a roof/layback (11c) to huge jugs and a fun technical finish. Soft for the grade.
Just left of Frank Presley, starts up a small dihedral.
Rack of quickdraws
Aug 17, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Both pitches feel 11b to me..
|By Jon Nelson|
Mar 21, 2012
I also thought the first pitch was stiff for 11a.
|By Douglas T|
Aug 17, 2013
What a Fantastic climb! I think the 5.11c grade is closer to spot-on than way-off. Easier than Japanese Gardens but harder than Even Steven or Phone Calls from the Dead.
The climb is perfectly fine as a clip-up sport climb. However, one could supplement or even skip the bolts in the final corner with a handful of small cams. Either way is fine as long as you climb.
If you want to project P2 via TR, you can skip the crux by entering in from the "Leave my Face Alone" slab into the final "Kite" corner. A Super-TR can even be made from the ground with two 70m ropes.