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Kitchen's Delight 2 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type: Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: n_a
Page Views: 1,402
Submitted By: Skip Harper on Jan 1, 2001
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A close up of the start to the route.

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Description 

NOTE: Number 4 on the topo. This is a great moderate hand crack (actually the 2nd pitch of Kitchen's Delight) that literally eats medium cams - and your hands if you don't tape up! Step across the void to the right (facing the rock) from the belay station and jam up the crack.


Protection 

Take Camalots from #0.75 to #3.5, 2 each of #0.75, #1 and #2, a full range of wires and some extra 24" slings. The belay is on gear at the back of a large depression over the top. Arrange a 'remote' belay with an extra long length of your rope from your placements. This way you can not only see your second, but avoid big time rope drag. A 60 M rope is recommended. Its two rap stations to the bottom as indicated on the topo.



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By Danny Inman
From: Arvada
Jul 24, 2006

Somewhat similar to NE cutoff, except pitch two is a hand crack. Worthwhile route. I felt the grade of Kitchens to be equivalent to that of NE cutoff.

By Avery N
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 9, 2009

I think the description above takes the easier variation on the second pitch (Low Road, 5.2 per Heel and Toe).

First pitch -- can't say first-hand (we started with Croissant), but it does begin on an obvious crack from behind the huge boulder.

For the second pitch (Kitchen's Delight, not the variation listed above). Step just right of the belay. Head up the offwidth 15' to a roof. Traverse right under the roof (crux, mostly small cams) until you hit the beautiful (but easy) vertical hand/fist crack. Take this to the top. 2 raps, the lower of which is close to 30m.

Harper and Kelman list this as 7+, which I (surprisingly) found pretty accurate.

By Brett Brotherton
From: Arvada, CO
Jun 5, 2010

Did this climb when it was windy, boy was that a interesting. I was very glad not be leading as once up the wall we were experiencing 60+ MPH gusts and probably 40 MPH sustained!

By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Jul 6, 2011

I found the roof traverse to be the distinct crux, the grade was accurate, but protection is awkward to place; 5.7+ PG.

By Christina kalb
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 7, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

As of this writing, the bolts on the top of pitch 1 are 1/4 inch. While they are in good condition still, be wary....