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Kit Kat 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Angel Mangual-Guadalupe
Page Views: 2,046
Submitted By: Mike Diesen on Jan 20, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Angel Pulling roof on first lead just after he fin...

Description 

Fun climbing up the face of the detached block right of Whatchamacallit. Follows bolts up the crux face to where the rock pinches off. Pull roof and continue up bolts. Make very exposed step over next roof then cruise easy face to anchors. Be sure to stay out of the grungy rock around the left corner.

This is a very fun and exposed climb but really watch yourself between the second and third bolt. And make sure you belayer is paying attention. If you blow the third clip and your belayer is asleep there is a potential to deck.

Location 

Right of Whatchamacallit is a detached block. Climb starts just left of the center of the face and then up to the left side.

Protection 

Bolts, Chain Anchors


Photos of Kit Kat Slideshow Add Photo
Todd starting up Kit Kat.
Todd starting up Kit Kat.
Getting into the roofs...
Getting into the roofs...

Comments on Kit Kat Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 9, 2011
By Mike Dudley
From: Vegas
Jan 24, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Very fun route. Watch yourself between the second and third bolts, the holds are there but they can be hard to find. Stick to the left above the second bolt for a little easier climbing.
By Mike Diesen
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Jan 31, 2009

The crux is the second to third bolt. Run out so really watch yourself. Probably closer to 5.8+. Maybe even pushing easy 5.9.
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Apr 8, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Someone added a [third] bolt...no more "runout". The nerve of some people! =)
By Jimbo
Apr 8, 2009

No kidding, someone just up and added another bolt without asking?

People there are rules, no matter how loose they sometimes appear to be!

If it's not your route and you wnat to change it in some way how's about asking the FAist?? He or she might just say "OK go for it".
Or they might say "no way leave it alone", which you should then do!!!!!

What up!!!

By Brigette
From: Seattle, WA
Apr 13, 2009

FYI - We ran into the bolt-adder this weekend and he mentioned that he got Angel's permission (all the way from Afghanistan) before adding that bolt.
By Mike Diesen
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Apr 13, 2009

Yes it was Daryl. He just earned himself 20 feet of penalty slack the next time he climbs.
By Jimbo
Apr 13, 2009

All is forgiven. Making a call to Afghanistan to add a bolt is way beyond the call of duty.
By Angel Mangual
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Apr 15, 2009

I guess I have to make another scary route :) HMMMM I wonder who put the bolt because I found out after the fact? Could it had been grani Mike hmmmm :) Hey...guys have fun and I can't wait to climb again...you guys have to see the potential that is over here. I guess on my standards is going to be a 5.7
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Apr 15, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

The interesting part of this story is i haven't seen Brigette in a couple months.
By Brigette
From: Seattle, WA
Apr 20, 2009

Now I'm confused... The really, really interesting part is: Why would someone say they'd added a bolt if it wasn't them?

Only slightly less interesting is the fact that I've never met Daryl. Why haven't I ever met Daryl?
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Apr 20, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I met you a weekend or two before you dogged me on that photo belaying wo a helmet. In fact, you were belaying someone from that same spot [goodnplenty] when i met you. Must have been a heckuva night. ;)

All, don't fret over the bolt. It was a concerted effort and the FA is well aware; all involved parties have his eternal blessings. Thanks, Jimbo, for manning the Phalanx.. always nice to have a good deck gunner on your side!
By Jimbo
Apr 20, 2009

Daryl, those of us that do need to protect each other from those that don't. Just doin' my job.

I glad it all came to a delightful conclusion.

Cheers,
By Brigette
From: Seattle, WA
Apr 21, 2009

Daryl - Must have been! Let's try that again sometime, when I'm conscious. :)
By pheindel
Jan 9, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route, especially towards the top. No run out anymore, very safe climb. Can anyone explain why the chains on most of these routes are way above an avoidable edge? Trying to prevent lowering and TR?