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Amazing Grace T 
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Unfinished Symphony T 
Weenie Juice T 

Kisses Don't Lie 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Greg Mayer - October 1994
Page Views: 358
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 22, 2014

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Kisses Don't Lie

Description 

The hardest, and best, of the Icebox slab climbs, Kisses Don't Lie is an amazing route. This style of climbing will perhaps never be popular, but for those who are into it, or want to challenge themselves, this is a beauty.

P1 (140', 5.12a/b PG13): Climb up the slab passing four bolts with black hangers. The wall steepens and the route follows a vague rib feature of barely usable holds. There is a 15' stretch of climbing where you're just barely on - it feels hard as nails until you let go of your gravitational inhibitions and transcend. Then a rest and then higher another crux (11+) and a run to the anchor, but the whole pitch has multiple 5.10+/5.11- slab sections. 11 bolts which, despite their reputation, I believe are very well-placed for the lead (though the crux bolt is indeed difficult to clip without the draw in place).

P2 (110', 5.11b PG13): Step right from the belay and pull over a roof. Climb an exposed corner passing bolts and gear placements to a great stance on a hollow pillar. Ignore a bolt way up and left, and instead load up the face with gear, step down and move right with commitment. Continue upwards via laser-cut edges and then into a welcomed stemming section up two opposing flakes. Above these, pull the intimidating roof (key #2 Camalot) that caps the pitch and guards the chains. This pitch, though easier, is spectacular and definitely not to be missed.


Protection 

Single run of cams to #2 Camalot, wires, and at least 11 draws/slings. An 80m rope will just barely reach (be careful!) on the first pitch, but otherwise 2 ropes are mandatory.



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