The second pitch of Kiss the Sky is one of the better pitches on Strone Crag, requiring thoughtful and careful climbing on good rock with fine exposure. The first pitch (110’) starts up Firefly, climbing past its first three bolts to an obvious, large horizontal break and another bolt; from here diagonal right (Firefly goes left) and catch a sweet but easy crack (5.6) to a small footstance and belay from a single bolt and cams. The money pitch (120’) traverses right and up under a roof band until possible to step right onto the face and climb up to a bolt just above a small roof. Bust up to the next bolt, then follow a seam system on the left and head toward a bolt protecting moves to easier ground. Work up and slightly right to join the anchors shared by Starstruck, Mad Calf Disease, and Old Habits Die Hard. Don't pass up any pro between the second and last bolt, or you might get yourself a runout.
Follow the approach for Starstruck (also see the photodiagram on the main page for Strone Crag). Walk left along the ledge system from which Starstruck and the other northwest face routes begin for about 100 feet, well past the start for Cost of Business and Old Habits Die Hard. Look for a solitary bolt 30 feet above the ground, near a somewhat broken aręte. This marks the first pitch.
Take along micronuts, microcams, and other gear to 2”. Can make one long rappel from the two-bolt anchor atop the route (two 60 meter ropes), or two rappels stopping at a two-bolt hanging stance halfway down (not recommended). Both get you to the ledge system from which the climb begins.
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 5, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
Too bad for the dirty first part of the first pitch or I would give this 3 stars. The second pitch is 5.10 something - thin edging with occasional 5.10 move. Definately bring your microcams and brass, look for the best line and don't pass up a placement - most are shallow with cams bottoming out and sticking straight out. Good pitch.