This newly developed sport cliff looks over the Bates Lake located on the Kingston peninsula. This is a very convenient crag having only a 5 min approach, and the majority of the climbs can be accessed from above for easy top rope setup.
The rock quality is pretty good for being rhyolite and basalt there are some loose rocks/pebbles wearing a helmet is strongly recommended.
The cliff gets direct sunlight from early morning to mid afternoon. Located on the Lake road just 5 min from the gondola point ferry.
From highway # 1 take the Gondola Point exit (between Hampton and Saint John). After crossing the Gondola Point ferry turn right onto highway 845. Stay on this road for about 3 kilometers and then turn left onto the Lake Road. About a kilometer up the Lake Road you should see a cliff on your left through the trees. Park in the driveway on the left after house #45 (hard to see, drive slow).
OR – Same directions as Hampton Marsh, but instead of turning down Norton Shore Road, stay on the Pickwocket….to the village of Kingston – (about 10/15 minutes) – once you pass the Irving & Church, take the next left (Lake Road)….about 1 km up, you’ll see an overgrown driveway with a boulder in the middle. Park here…
GPS coordinates are 45 29.516’ 065 58.935’.
Climbing Season For the New Brunswick area.
Weather station 4.6 miles from here
22 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Kingston Crag:
Featured Route For Kingston Crag
Jester 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b North America
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Obvious line directly below tuning fork Spruce tree. An easy start to the first bolt, then a tricky crux with a shallow mono pocket to crank on will bring you to easier climbing between 2nd and 3rd bolts then another thin crux section up the vertical face to finish. Aręte near the top can be used to make the route 10c....[more] Browse More Classics in International
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