|Morning Glory Wall
Kings of Rap
|Type: ||Sport, 1 pitch, 75'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]|
|FA: ||Brooke Sandahl 5/87|
|Season: ||When the sun isn't beatin|
|Page Views: ||2,884|
|Submitted By: ||Ryan Palo on Oct 23, 2006|
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Unknown climber on Kings of Rap. The route contin...
Excellent position and awesome movement characterize this four star route. Begin on a slab boulder across from the route. Step across and begin pulling on good pockets. Once you clip bolt 3 the business begins, make a long reach to great pockets, then move out to a ledge. More tenuous pockets await. At the 5th bolt the first crux begins, shallow pockets combined with a strange stem lead you to better sidepulls. Move into good stemming rest before the roof. Great holds lead you to the head wall. The next crux involves some arete pinching with a long reach. The climbing does not ease from there, as a pump crux may foil your send.
Note: most of the pockets of this route have been drilled, but what route at Smith doesn't have some manufacturing.
Start left of the Da Kine Corner or two routes right of Churning
This route usually sports long fixed draws.
Ryan popping out of the roof.
|By Matt Sedor|
From: portland, or
Feb 6, 2012
I was on kings this weekend and the flake after the third bolt is getting pretty, ah, hollow? Any locals have an opinion on this. I would be down to help out with a little maintenance but Ill leave the decision making to the folks who generally steward the crag. Maybe if the flake pulls it can be smith's newest .13b?