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Hi. I'm The Best Guide EVAR! 
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Kings of Cribbage 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Andy Ross & Gene Vallee
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 760
Submitted By: apross on Jul 23, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Kings of Cribbage

Description 

Start up the slab right of Dumb Fun.
Pull round the roof on the right then step left into a groove/ramp. Head up this to a headwall where some nice pulling leads to the anchor.

A good warm up on the way to the Coffin.


Location 

Starts on the slab right of Dumb Fun.


Protection 

Bolts.
1/2" to 3" cams.
Med size wires and a few long slings.



Photos of Kings of Cribbage Slideshow Add Photo
Gene on the slab
Gene on the slab
Gene near the top.
Gene near the top.
Comments on Kings of Cribbage Add Comment
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By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Nov 7, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Fun slightly gritty slabbing leads to some downright frightful rock. Small nuts help up high, or cams smaller than 1/2". The moves to the anchors felt stout and sketchy for the grades. Long slings on everything or you'll end up pulling hard on that rope.
Check out the anchor 10' down and left, it's quite the sight.
Any info on the bolted line through the roof?

By mountainsense
Nov 23, 2009

It's too bad the lower slab isn't longer--fun moves on great stone. The climbing above is engaging, to say the least... Nice work, gents!

By tenesmus
May 30, 2010

I really like this one. The lower slab getting up to that roof is super fun. The gear moving left over the roof is fine. The gear description is dead on and all the gear we had was super solid. Where you are on gear the climbing is particularly easy and you get a bolt to finish. Seems like a great warmup for the Coffin if you are a 5.9 leader gunning for the onsite. Oh, and I love that when the leader is at the belay our 70M rope was exactly at the midpoint.

The anchor down and left is from Troy Anderson's aid route Pin Man going out that roof. Looks fairly straight forward and probably a great intro to steep, traversing nailing.