King's Hand Left
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Climb up unprotected slab for 150' to an anchor. There used to be a drilled pin on this pitch but it is no longer there, any pro you get on this pitch is mental pro only. (5.8 R)
Traverse left before climbing up and over a crux bulge and past 2 bolts to a belay. (5.9)
A few variations on this pitch.
Variation #1- I climbed around the left side of the hand and then climbed a chimney between the hand and the rim wall to the top. Rope drag was horrid.
Variation #2- Climb up between 2 of the rock fingers.
The last 10-15' were first climbed by Peter Gallagher by throwing a rope over the summit.
Rappel the route with 2 double rope rappels. On the rappel marvel at how scared you were and how low angle the climb really is.
We had a single set of cams but wished we had a few more.
Andrea Gordon at the base of King's Hand.
Big Al Bartlett on the King's Hand. Photo@SEMICOL...
Al Bartlett again on the King's Hand. Photo@SEMI...
pitch 3, chimney 1
try not to do it in the rain
|Comments on King's Hand Left
|By Ben Kiessel|
Apr 25, 2007
So maybe the pin is still around on the first pitch.
Greg D. wrote, "I did find the pin on the first pitch. It is about 60 feet up roughly in the middle of the formation just after what I would call the second bulge."
|By Greg D|
Mar 12, 2008
We did King's Hand Right 3/31/06.. This is the same as the Left except for the second and third pitch. Definitely runout at 8 or easier, sandy and a bit heady. I did find the pin on the first pitch. It is about 60 feet up roughly in the middle of the formation just after what I would call the second bulge. There were some more gear placements after that, but still a bit runout. We did the 10a second pitch. The crux is well protected with a pin and I added a bomber nut just above it. The only jug on the pitch is a bit smaller now. It came off in my partner's hand and is probably on Wall Street now. After that, a few small nuts provide mediocre protection on steep, sandy slab/dihedral. Never found the two baby angles. The third and fourth pitch were fun with some good gear and good rock as well as some soft rock. We rapped off in two double rope rappells with 60m ropes with good anchors and no problems. The most adventure I've had on Wall Street.
|By Ryan Howa|
From: Price, Ut
Oct 13, 2008
if you aim for the chains on the first pitch, you'll find the pin at about sixty feet.
didnt get to finish, thought the rock was to skechy. so i can say that the first pitch was ok.
|By paul bucher|
From: moab, utah
Apr 3, 2013
way cleaner, funner, harder, and less run out than i expected. bondo did stellar on this one, especially considering he lead the whole thing in the rain. first pitch is the most run. second has more pro and the third sews up. well worth doing.