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King's Bluff

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Alley, The 
Beach, The 
Cake Walk Wall 
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Dynamic Wall, The 
High Water Wall 
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King's Bluff East 
King's Bluff West 
Lonesome Wall 
Navigator Wall 
Orchard, The 
Politicians Wall 
Quiet Zone, The 
Walt's Wall 
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

King's Bluff  


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Location: 36.5015, -87.3234 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 35,634
Administrators: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ben Bruestle on Dec 15, 2006
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You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
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Me climbing at King's Bluff in Clarksville, TN. P...

Description 

Nashville's closest climbing, King's Bluff is owned and managed by the Southeastern Climbers Coalition. Southern aspect guarantees sunny cragging year-round that is usually not crowded. Decent shade is provided by overgrowth in the summer. Direct sunshine in the winter. Limestone lines 5.4 to 5.13a with small edges, flexing flakes and sweet pockets. Mostly sport with a few trad and mixed routes. Approximately 150 climbs 35-70 feet tall. The top of the the cliff is off limits, so the only way to set up topropes is by first leading the route. No camping in the area. Consider making a donation to the SCC at the box located along the approach trail. There are plenty of places to buy adult beverages in Screaming Eagle country. Developed by Walter Wilkinson and Terry Parker in the early 1990's. Classics include Baby Kangaroo 5.8+, First Plum 5.10b, LAG 5.9 and Ritz Bitz 5.10c.

Getting There 

Located at the Max Court cul-de-sac in Clarksville. Approach takes less than 5 minutes to hike from the parking lot to the base of the cliff perched above the Cumberland River. From I-24 take exit 11 towards Clarksville. Follow Hwy 76 just over six miles west, crossing Hwy 41A on the way. Turn left after the Amoco station onto Max Court, go thru the gate and park at the end of the road. The descent trail is just left of the bulletin board.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.7 miles from here

126 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',36],['1 Star',79],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',14],['5.7',8],['5.8',16],['5.9',20],['5.10',44],['5.11',27],['5.12',7],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for King's Bluff:
Dip in the River   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   The Alley
Bob the Builder   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   The Alley
Learning to Walk   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 50'   The Alley
L.A.G.   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   The Orchard
Wired For Sound   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 45'   The Dynamic Wall
Stone Dagger   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 60'   The Quiet Zone
The First Plum   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   The Orchard
Elevator Shoes   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   The Quiet Zone
Prelude To Harvest   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 40'   Lonesome Wall
Browse More Classics in King's Bluff

Featured Route For King's Bluff
My left hand is in a slot on top of the flake. Fin...

Wired For Sound 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  TN : King's Bluff : The Dynamic Wall
Dixie Cragger says it's trad, but most of this wall has been retro-bolted. Really fun overhung crack. Then move left of the overhang (moving right puts you on Another Hard Decision)....[more]   Browse More Classics in TN

Photos of King's Bluff Slideshow Add Photo
Route Placard
BETA PHOTO: Route Placard
Looking down the steps to base of climbs
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the steps to base of climbs
Leading a 5.8... I think its called "Engineer...
Leading a 5.8... I think its called "Engineer...
Trail steps
BETA PHOTO: Trail steps
Overview
BETA PHOTO: Overview
Looking east from lower wooden platform
BETA PHOTO: Looking east from lower wooden platform

Comments on King's Bluff Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 2, 2011
By Jer Alz
From: Las Vegas
Jul 13, 2015
CONDITION REPORT 
I have started updating MP with the routes info. The MP page lacks a ton of climbs.

Also some of the marking plates seem to be missing down there. As well the routes need some work, a lot of old and/or rusty corroded hardware. Sad to see it being neglected. I no longer live here or I would be helping to get it cleaned up.
By Brad Caldwell
From: Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Jul 14, 2015
CONDITION REPORT 
Jer Alz, just curious if MP allows copies of guidebooks to be posted now...for years this was disallowed as it could be considered copyright infringement. I noticed you posted a lot of photo copies from a guidebook and was curious. I have written several guidebooks myself and would be a little upset to see my information and images posted on this site in this fashion.
By Jer Alz
From: Las Vegas
Jul 15, 2015
CONDITION REPORT 
I guess not. Sad that money is more important than sharing info with the intent to improve.
I have removed photos. I no longer live there and cannot go and photograph all the climbs, or I would. Guess people will just have to figure it out.
By dnoB ekiM
Nov 25, 2009
This is a great little sport crag. Many of the older Walt Wilkinson bolts with welded shuts as hangars are severely rusted and need replacement soon....they are ticking time bombs. It seems this would have been a better investment of the SCC's time and money than the "disneyesque" nameplates that were installed. A couple of the bolts/shuts on Three Wishes and Baby I'm... are ridiculously rusted.
By Adam Beck
From: Nashville, TN
Jan 21, 2010
There are some bolts in need of replacement. Many of the bolts are good; especially on the more popular moderate routes. The name tags were made by a climber at Fort Campbell. We haven't heard much from him since 2007. Anyway he made and donated the placards to the SCC. They have been a great addition. You don't even need a guidebook!

This crag is extremely kept and beginner-friendly; especially when compared to some of the areas along the plateau.

But don't do any of the few trad lines you find here. The limestone is terrible for gear. It gets polished really fast because so many people climb it.
By Brad "Stonyman" Killough
Administrator
From: Alabama
Jan 22, 2010
Thanks for the info Adam
By dnoB ekiM
Feb 7, 2010
Thanks for the info. I am not bashing this crag. It is a wonderful place to climb. There are more than a few bad bolts here though...even on the moderates (see Engineering a Goat Rope). Just about every bolt with a welded-shut hanger is extremely corroded. I'm not complaining (heck I would work to replace them if I were local)...just warning future visitors.

All that said..this is a fun place to put in some laps!
By TKHouse
Apr 21, 2010
This message is in response to an incident at the Bluff last weekend in which a climber decked from about 25 feet up, rolled down the river bank, and had to be carried and taken out by boat.

King's Bluff has the highest concentration of low-grade sport in Tennessee. This provides an outstanding opportunity for new leaders to learn the basic skills of leading sport climbs. Because of this, King's Bluff attracts a lot of new climbers who may or may not have the necessary gear or understanding of cleaning sport routes.

I encourage any new climbers coming to climb at the Bluff to seek out proper instruction and/or ask any of the friendly climbers at the Bluff. Sport climbing can be done in a relatively safe manner, where most of the risk of injury can be mitigated by accepted practices and safety standards.

Accidents like the one last weekend put at risk the outstanding opportunity that the SCC and several Clarksville locals have made at King's Bluff. If someone suggests you are doing something unsafe, humble yourself and at least listen to their point of view. People aren't trying to put you down or act arrogant, but by doing something unsafe you are endangering the climbing for the other climbers who regularly visit King's Bluff. The climber injured last weekend repeatedly denied help from climbers in my group several times before he decked.

If you are unsure about something you have previously had explained to you, or simply in need of assistance, ask other climbers. Everyone I have met at King's Bluff has always been friendly and willing to help.

Safe climbing!
By Mike Daschle
Oct 30, 2010
Route finding here is VERY easy due to the tags on the bottom of the routes. These were placed to prevent people from etching info into the rock, I suppose. If you want the guide book for the area, you'll have to get Hank Smith & Scott Griggs' book or check out seclimbers.org.
By Emmanuel Eman Lacoste
Jun 6, 2011
new guidebook for climbers living or visiting Clarksville. New Crag listed and recommended areas near King's Bluff.
Little Crimpers, A climber's Guide to Clarksville
By Blake Allen Green
Oct 2, 2011
I want to echo the comments of TK above, there are many, many beginners here that I have frequently seen doing things that are reckless if not completely dangerous. Many times I have simply left parts of the cliff for fear of getting involved with whatever accident ensues. I strongly encourage beginners coming to the bluff to enjoy the easier routes, but please, please go through the proper channels to learn important safety technique before climbing outside.

Similarly, if you see someone doing something that is completely reckless or simply uninformed, kindly ask them if they would mind some information that might keep them safer. Most logical people won't say no to that if you don't pose it in a condescending manner.

On another note, it's pretty common for the easier areas of the cliff to get super crowded on the weekends. I personally have been parts of very large groups many times. If you're bringing a group to the cliff just be considerate of others: try to break up into smaller groups if possible and just keep the noise down, people do live above the cliff in many places and even where they don't, it's doubtful people came outside to climb to listen to kids screaming or debates about which kind of pizza you like best. Consideration of others is especially important in areas with high concentrations of easier or moderate climbs. Safety is definitely compromised when climber and belayer cannot hear each other, especially if it's, say, someone's first time cleaning a route.

We all want to have a great time at the Bluff, if you're a beginner or new to the area just be sure about everything you're doing, and if you're not, don't be afraid to ask!

BG
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