King's Arete 5.13a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12d [details] |
| FA: | Eric Fazio-Rhicard, Jim Scott - 2008 |
| Submitted By: | Luke Bertelsen on Sep 13, 2012 |
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Mid Crux
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Description What a stellar line! Great position, exposure, and fun moves up the green lichened arete of the King formation. The minimal hassle of a short approach pitch might deter some climbers, but it is totally worth it.
Location Pretty easy to find this by just looking up and finding the striking green arete on the left side of the King formation. Climb the approach pitch to a set of anchors on a sizable ledge. The climb is straight up the arete from the ledge.
Protection 5 bolts + anchors - 5.11- approach pitch to ledge
8 bolts + anchors
By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
Sep 13, 2012
| With a 70m, you clip the anchor on the ledge then the first bolt (or two?) on the arete, then downclimb and unclip from that anchor. Something like that, I forget the exact details.
Then you can do it as one pitch from the ground. A lot more comfortable for the belayer too as most people will whip many times figuring out the sequences. |
By Luke Bertelsen
Sep 14, 2012
| A 60M rope works with rope left to spare. We just put a long sling on the anchor at the ledge then went straight into the climb. We didn't have any issues for rope drag over the ledge. |
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 11, 2013
rating: 5.13-
| I heard folks are climbing out right to avoid the crux of this climb making it more 12 than 13-. I pretty much went straight up then right to a big jug when we did it. This may be because I love aretes and had tunnel vision and missed an easier way through that section. |
By RyanJ
From: Tucson, Arizona
Apr 15, 2013
rating: 5.12+
| It is a bit disappointing that between bolts 5 and 6 you can either take the original finish straight up, which involves a bit of small hold technical trickery, or move right 3 feet and take the trivial jug haul.
This is characteristically a 'choose your own adventure' section then, either the fun way, or the easy way. |
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