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Kingfisher bolts

Original Post
Jeremy Aslaksen · · 505 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 425
This post was originally a comment in Kingfisher

Post deleted.
Joe Forrester · · Palo Alto · Joined Aug 2005 · Points: 2,112
This post was originally a comment in Kingfisher

It is a damn shame that someone thinks it is appropriate to drill a bolt ladder to get to the top of a tower, particularly if it is for slack-lining or jumping. The Fishers are, and should remain, a place to go when one wants to experience the thrill of pushing their own limits, whether aid or free. Many of us who post on this site have spent a long time honing skills on Cutler. It takes a long time to develop that skill; and in the Fishers in particular it is hard earned. There is a long list of very strong climbers who have put up first ascents in the Fishers. To see their vision bastardized by this kind of crap is pretty infuriating. The only thing routes like this do is prove that the climbing community is being increasingly overrun limp weiners who don't take the time to really climb in an area before whipping out the drill. Everyone makes mistakes, no doubt. Hopefully it was just someone who learned how to drill, and went haywire. I sincerly hope that someone who has actually spent time in this beautiful and unique climbing area would have the decency and intelligence to avoid this atrocity. What is especially frustrating, which other posters have alluded to, is that there is a bolt ladder right next to this route. Whether adding a bolt clipping fest up a tower, or adding in new bolts to established routes; this needs to stop. Replacing old hardware is one thing, adding bolts on established lines where there were none, or putting up new entirely bolted lines is another. If any of the aforementioned limp weiners have a problem with this, I am easy to get in contact with.

Joe Forrester
Steve Bartlett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,376

Photo of the bolt ladder in question (click this up to full size for the best effect):

Bolt ladder drilled between Kingfisher and Dragontail

This is not the location of the Bill Forrest variation first pitch. The Variation is a short distance right of the regular start. This is the next gully to the right.

ben jammin · · Moab, UT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 852

HeZus Christe that's a lot of glue-ins. If someone provided me the info on how many/where the 'new' bolts are on CO NE Ridge I'll be happy to chop them when I go up there this spring.

Edit- To be clear I'm not talking about the bolts in the previous picture. I've heard there are new slack line fatty's on CO NE Ridge itself.

Jason Haas · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 1,582

Greg Miller and I climbed this thing last March looking for an alternate start to freeing the standard line on Kingfisher. It's actually a pretty good free line at 5.10+/5.11-. The route diverges near the top - we took the left line which requires some trad gear. Not sure where the right fork leads

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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