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Redgarden - Tower Two
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King Tut 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 275'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Charlie Fowler, Bill Feiges, 1977
Page Views: 305
Submitted By: Guy H. on May 9, 2011
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Mark Miner approaching the wild crux moves of King...
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  • Description 

    King Tut is on Steve Levin obscure tour. It is a worthy objective, but you should have your act together before attempting it. There is quite a bit of loose rock, but all hard moves are off solid features. It is quite intimidating from below, but decent gear can be found every ~10 feet on the crux pitch.

    P1: Start up steep huecos to the starting crack on T2 off of the upper ramp. When T2 breaks left, continue up the steep, left-facing, black groove. The crux bulge is 2/3rds of the way up the 1st pitch. Solid gear can be found and it is at your feet as you pull the funky crux moves. A final awkward bulge leads to a belay ledge on the right. Bring a long sling for the belay horn.

    P2a: The original 2nd pitch heads straight up from the belay on steep rock. This pitch finishes on runout 5.5 slabs to the T2 belay (5.8R).

    P2b: An alternate P2 cuts left on a crack system with good exposure and gear to the T2 crack system (5.8+).


    Location 

    King Tut starts left of the Naked Edge on the upper ramp. It shares the start of the classic T2 finger crack pitch.


    Protection 

    Double rack of cams to #2, singles up to #4 Friend with lots of slings.

    Extra small and medium cams could be placed.



    Photos of King Tut Slideshow Add Photo
    King Tut corner.
    King Tut corner.
    David Reinert comes up following on the crux of the long first pitch of King Tut (5.9+, R), an obscure but great climb on upper Redgarden Wall.
    David Reinert comes up following on the crux of th...
    David Reinert coming up under the first overhang of King Tut (5.9+, R), a good climb on upper Redgarden.  This shot reveals the length of the first pitch.
    David Reinert coming up under the first overhang o...
    David Reinert up to the second bulging crux of P1 of King Tut (5.9+, R) on Redgarden Wall.
    David Reinert up to the second bulging crux of P1 ...
    Comments on King Tut Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    May 9, 2011

    Note: The crux moves will mostly feel like 5.10, which shouldn't be a big surprise, since it is a 5.9+ from the '70s.

    By Drew Spaulding
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 1, 2014
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13

    This corner needs a good cleaning of "loose shit" that just doesn't need to be there. 20 mins of hammer tapping on loose plates and layered stacks and this could be a 4-star pitch....