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King Snake Crack
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Avg: 2.3 from 3
votes
Routes in Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (including Upper and Lower Alchemist)
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Bowling Alone S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cupcakes & Champagne S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Fun in the Sun S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Golden Boy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hills Have Flies, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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King Snake Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Labrador Ate the Cupcakes, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pilot’s Paradise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Prestige, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Quiet Flight S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Tender Flakes of Mercy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Ugly Duckling S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Written Exam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 195 ft (59 m) |
| FA: | Patrick Callery & Matthew Fienup (Aug 2014) |
| Page Views: | 1,686 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Matthew Fienup on Aug 7, 2014 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Use the first 4 bolts of Tender Flakes of Mercy to access an excellent layback crack that begins 80 feet off the deck. Layback this crack past tiny to small gear for about 40 feet. Just before the crack becomes dirty and vegetated, step up on to the face above the crack and climb straight up past 3 bolts to the top of the wall. Belay from an anchor shared with Tender Flakes of Mercy.
While it is possible to climb this route as one massive pitch, it is highly recommended that it be broken in to two to avoid overwhelming rope drag. With a little creativity, it is possible to belay at the 3rd lead bolt.
Rappel as for Tender Flakes of Mercy.
While it is possible to climb this route as one massive pitch, it is highly recommended that it be broken in to two to avoid overwhelming rope drag. With a little creativity, it is possible to belay at the 3rd lead bolt.
Rappel as for Tender Flakes of Mercy.
Location
The route starts as for Tender Flakes of Mercy. From that route's 4th bolt, traverse left for 10 feet to access the start of the layback crack.
Protection
Bolts and gear from tiny to 2 inches. Consider carrying a double set of TCUs and two green camalots.
In keeping with the style established by Forkash & Anderson on the nearby route Fun in the Sun, the bolt count on this route was kept low. There is 40 feet of climbing above the route's last bolt. Take time to find a 1.5" cam placement above the last bolt or face a harrowing runout.
In keeping with the style established by Forkash & Anderson on the nearby route Fun in the Sun, the bolt count on this route was kept low. There is 40 feet of climbing above the route's last bolt. Take time to find a 1.5" cam placement above the last bolt or face a harrowing runout.
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