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King of the Hangdogs 
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King of the Hangdogs 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Dave Bingham, Pokey Amory
Page Views: 456
Submitted By: Christina Freschl on Jan 23, 2011
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Dan TRs Hangdogs.

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Description 

Hardest move after the roof where the holds get small.


Location 

Just to the left of Scar Tissue. Corner to roof.


Protection 

Anchors just left and below scar tissue anchors. Easy to set up on TR after climbing S.T.



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By bheller
From: SL UT
Jan 26, 2011
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

So you toproped it and thought it should be downgraded?

By Scott W
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 24, 2011

Impressively classic 5.11b/c dihedral to a V7/8 boulder problem that is literally one move. Takes away from the route quite a bit. Not even fun to be honest, not sure if I'll ever try it again. 1 star tops.

By bheller
From: SL UT
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

I second the stemming corner is great, and probably closer to 11+. The crux roof can be done many ways, with the best being a sneaky beta intensive sequence that amounts to a rather enjoyable 6 move V5. Also, supplementary gear is needed above the crux in a couple of places, so bring small/med nuts and a red Metolius/.75 BD to get you to the chains. Also, although it is fun to refer it as such, the crux is nowhere close to holding the the title for "hardest move in the city." Not many routes get afternoon shade at the City, and for that I offer 3 stars.