King of the Hangdogs 5.12b/c
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.12c [details] |
| FA: | Dave Bingham, Pokey Amory |
| Submitted By: | Christina Freschl on Jan 23, 2011 |
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Dan TRs Hangdogs.
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Description Hardest move after the roof where the holds get small.
Location Just to the left of Scar Tissue. Corner to roof.
Protection Anchors just left and below scar tissue anchors. Easy to set up on TR after climbing S.T.
| Comments on King of the Hangdogs |
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By bheller From: SL UT Jan 26, 2011 rating: 5.12c
| So you toproped it and thought it should be downgraded? |
By Scott W From: Roy, UT Jun 24, 2011
| Impressively classic 5.11b/c dihedral to a V7/8 boulder problem that is literally one move. Takes away from the route quite a bit. Not even fun to be honest, not sure if I'll ever try it again. 1 star tops. |
By bheller From: SL UT Jun 25, 2012 rating: 5.12c
| I second the stemming corner is great, and probably closer to 11+. The crux roof can be done many ways, with the best being a sneaky beta intensive sequence that amounts to a rather enjoyable 6 move V5. Also, supplementary gear is needed above the crux in a couple of places, so bring small/med nuts and a red Metolius/.75 BD to get you to the chains. Also, although it is fun to refer it as such, the crux is nowhere close to holding the the title for "hardest move in the city." Not many routes get afternoon shade at the City, and for that I offer 3 stars. |
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