A classic route that climbs a very unique sloping ramp. The first pitch (50') is pumpy the whole time and has great rock quality. There is a 2nd pitch that goes at 5.11- I believe, but it rarely gets done.
IMHO, a glaring omission from Selected Climbs, which ironically features a full-page photo of this route but no description.
Right end of Lower HB. Supposedly is always dry.
3 bolts and some small-med cams for the 1st pitch. Bolted Anchor. 2nd pitch pro and anchor is unclear.
|By Edward Medina|
From: Brighton, CO
Jun 7, 2009
FA: Galen Howell, John Jackson
May 29, 2011
A perfect 00 TCU protects the very last hard move.
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jun 16, 2014
I don't own the 00, but a 3 ballnut worked very well here. Hard to see from below, but the placement is much deeper. The gold ballnut is rated to 8kN, which makes you really happy for that last section. Also got a tricam in the horizontal before.
5 days ago
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Such a good route and solid for the grade. Thanks for the ball nut beta Tom that worked perfect for me