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Lower Hawksbill
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Conventional Warfare 
Diving Board, The 
Encore 
Fat Lady, The 
Ice Cream Direct 
Jeep's Chimney 
King of Kings 
King of Kings roof finish (P-2) 
Phantom of the Opera 
Trundle From Down Under 
Whip-or-will 

King of Kings roof finish (P-2) 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 306
Submitted By: nbrown on Jun 22, 2012
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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At the 3rd bolt

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  • Description 

    This is perhaps the steepest climbing at Lower Hawksbill, climbing the series of overhangs up and right of the chain anchor on P-1. It can be done in one pitch (originally done on the FA) but might be better broken up into two to reduce rope drag. It would also be a great way to finish up "Conventional Warfare" by linking it into one long pitch (it's directly above the bolted corner).

    I gave this a 2 star rating only because there are still a few sharp and hollow holds that could pop, none of which are critical. However, the actual climbing and position is excellent in my personal opinion.

    Also, the 2 bolts placed into the roof's are monsters (4+ inches deep) that were laboriously hand drilled to make them bombproof.

    P-1 Climb King Of Kings to the anchor and either belay there or move right and slightly down to belay directly below roofs at a gear belay (cams).

    P-2 Climb past a bolt in the seam to the roof. Clip another bolt and crank out the series of overhangs past some gear and another bolt to a thank God ledge below the last roof. Hand sized cams protect the last section to the 2 bolt anchor lower off (fixed biners).


    Location 

    See picture topo.


    Protection 

    3 bolts and a medium sized rack of cams. No nuts required.



    Photos of King of Kings roof finish (P-2) Slideshow Add Photo
    a different angle of the roof
    BETA PHOTO: a different angle of the roof
    Route is in red, with blue marking King Of Kings and purple being the older P-2 alternatives.
    BETA PHOTO: Route is in red, with blue marking King Of Kings a...
    Comments on King of Kings roof finish (P-2) Add Comment
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    By Abel Jones
    From: Hickory, NC
    Aug 25, 2013

    Linking into this from King of kings is insane! With the added slings to cut back on rope drag, the fall potential was wild. I was too pumped to place, but there is some gear along the way that could minimize the action between bolts. Good job placing the bomber bolts... and so few... kept it exciting. There are some sharp edges my rope ran over up high but I didn't sling a piece up there so it was my fault. Slings!