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king of guano
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 4 from 3
votes
Routes in Getu Valley
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Blue Spirit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Business in China S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Dos Forasteros en la Selva S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dunman S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jiu (Nine) S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ki Di Buzz S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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king of guano S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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La Piscineta Cina S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Le Casse-tete Chinois S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Nudel Power S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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RimRim (P1) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wu S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 85 ft (26 m) |
| FA: | Seb Foissac |
| Page Views: | 1,480 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | dong Li on Sep 24, 2013 |
| Admins: | Dan Flynn, Nate Ball |
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Description
This is probably the best easy route in the great arch, and super fun. There are several hands-free rest positions along the way, making the rate at most 10a in my opinion. If you want to test your endurance and not take advantage of any of these rests, it might be a 10b.
Location
right side of the great arch. the second bolted line to the right of an obvious traverse bolt line
Protection
The protection is very good until the last two bolts, it's almost a 15 feet runout; the moves are easy but be careful if there's not too much left in your forearm. A BD size 4 cam should work here (not tested, take this suggestion with a grain of salt) to ease your mind, or bring an extra sling. There's a small rock arch two moves above the second to last bolt, you can girth-hitch it with your sling to protect (this is what i did).
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