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 ADVANCED
Valley Massif
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Been Hair Done That T 
Best Man T,TR 
Bill Steal T 
Bittersweet T 
Falcon's Lair T 
Hair of the Dog T 
Hammer T 
Hooker T 
Internal Combustion T 
King of Coney Island T,S 
Ladder T 
Monkey Wrench T 
Nail T 
Powder Puff T 
Quits T 
Screw T 
Slut, The T 
Social Security Ran Out T 
Soft Touch T 
Sunny Day T 
Surprise T 
Tail Spin T 
Tea Grinder T 
Tool Or Die T 
Zipper T 
Unsorted Routes:

King of Coney Island 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Zach Orenczak and Rachael Lynn
Page Views: 171
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jul 20, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a great finish for Nail and sets up to lead Tool or Die without having to climb Zipper.

Climb some well-protected moves above the P2 anchor on Nail to the 1st bolt. The crux is probably before or at the first bolt. Positive moves lead past 2 or 3 more bolts to the anchors above Zipper and Tool or Die.

Location 

This is right above the anchors on P2 of Nail.

Protection 

1 set of cams from 0.5-2.


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By justin hausmann
Aug 19, 2013

This felt like a sport climb pitch, tightly bolted, just placed 1 piece above the anchor then balanced up. Good finish.