King Me 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Forrest Wilcox |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | any |
| Submitted By: | Forrest Wilcox on Dec 23, 2012 |
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In the chimney
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Description P1 Slab climb up 5.6 past one bolt and pull up onto a big ledge make an anchor here (depending on how you want to start your second pitch make an anchor at the base of the chimney or to the left).
P2 There are two options either go right and climb the bolted chimney (5.8+ refer to the chimney pictures) or an easy variation go left and pull up onto the slab column from its left side (5.6) but i highly recomend doing the chimney it is one of the best i have seen at the top of the chimney it helps to do a 180 and use the crack to pull onto the ledge, once on the slab column follow 3 bolts and place some trad gear inbetween, make an anchor in a horizontal crack once you pass the last bolt.
P3 trad climb straight up once you pull up onto a big ledge go left and find a big crack, stem up the crack and then hand jam your way to another big ledge (5.7) and make an anchor somewhere on this ledge
P4 climb the dihedral with a sotol at the bottom and you end up at the top next to a big old tree(5.8)
(the crack at the top of the climb has two old pitons in it and the last dihedral has one very old piton, this topout was probably climbed in the 70s or 80s)
Location This route is located directley left of punch in the nose and right of the offwidths, to get down either rappel cross trainer of walk off the top
Protection 7 bolts. One set of cams, one set of nuts, 7 quickdraws
second pitch
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looking down the slab column
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looking up at the last bolt, it is all trad past h...
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blue dots are belays
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topo
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chimney up with your back where the yellow line is...
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from above, it is bolted now and it is a lot bette...
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topo
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chimney
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chimney
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last pitch
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BETA PHOTO: Showing some alternatives for P2:
One can skip t...
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By Forrest Wilcox
From: Las Cruces, NM
Dec 23, 2012
| One of the bolts is a spinner but it is solid dont worry, the holds and footholds on the climb are very solid hardley any lichen, the stemming crack has a lot of grass in it so it still needs to be cleaned out |
By Karl Kiser
Jan 1, 2013
| This is a good protected addition to the central portion of Checkerboard. The last pitch is the old Standard Finish. This finish usually went up the steep lieback corner and then right to avoid the last portion of the dihedral.
There was a leader fall and rescue (2nd pitch, fortunate outcome) Spring 1976 on the face left of King Me. We really do not want the event to happen again. |
By Forrest Wilcox
From: Las Cruces, NM
Jan 1, 2013
| ya the last undercling part of that dihedral is hard but it is the best ending to do, the main thing to make sure to do is find a certain jug to pull your whole body up out of the undercling at the end |
By franciscov
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 17, 2013
| | Francisco leading the first pitch of king me.
Submitted By: franciscov on Mar 17, 2013
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By franciscov
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 17, 2013
| The first pitch has no needed bolts. The lead had natural protection with in a few feet of all the bolts and when lead no bolts were used. The photograph above demonstrates this you can see a cam placement just across from the unused bolt. |
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