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The Checkerboard Wall
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Checkerboard Wall T 
King Me T 
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Ouiji Board T 

King Me 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 325', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Josh Gross, Madoline Wallace
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring , Fall
Page Views: 1,906
Submitted By: Josh Gross on Oct 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Mado on Pitch 2, King Me.

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Description 

Climb the wall above the Checker Board Wall's traverse ledge.

This is 3 pitches long. Look for steep, right-facing flake feature 6 feet off ledge.

P1. 5.10. Climb past a fixed pin (out of sight 30 feet up the pitch and left of start of route). (More of a trail blaze) stay just left of pin, then head up and left. Once you reach moderate ground, head up 30 feet to a good ledge and #0.75/#2 Camalot belay.

P2. 5.9. Climb a big, right-facing corner. At end of corner traverse, go left under cool nose feature.

P3. 5.10. Move around nose left then up OW to a hand crack through a small roof and the rim.

Protection 

0.3-4".


Photos of King Me Slideshow Add Photo
Josh starting pitch 2, King Me.
BETA PHOTO: Josh starting pitch 2, King Me.
King Me topo.
King Me topo.

Comments on King Me Add Comment
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By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
May 14, 2008

Did this route the other day and thought I'd add a couple of things.
You can get a topo at the ranger station. Some of the things on that topo are wrong or misleading. For one there is no "ramp" identifying the start. There is also no "tunnel through".

The route is fun and good quality climbing. The fixed pin on pitch one leaves something to be desired. It's a KB with the eye sticking about an inch and a half out of the rock. It's also the only decent piece you'll get for awhile, and the rock isn't great. The climbing isn't to hard in that section however.

This climb is better than the hump up the "descent" gully.
By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
May 17, 2009

To identify the start, look for 4 black streaks on a wall left. The climb begins on loose appearing flakes 15 ft up.

There is a fair bit requiring a trundle on pitch 2. I'd recommend this route over the exit gully. One star is about right.
By Eric and Lucie
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Found this route quite enjoyable.
First pitch has really good 5.10 with sharp holds and pretty good pro.
Watch for a loose block just right of the pin.
P2 is a long wide crack on pretty clean rock. Not bad at all.
BTW, I find it surprising that this route would not have been climbed before '07... was that pin really placed in 2007?
By Jeremy Werlin
May 24, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Really fun route with lots of good, varied climbing. The route has cleaned up nicely and is a combine with the Monkey or Maiden. Strongly recommended.
By Dave Vaughan
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 10, 2014

My partner Mark and I were in the Black last weekend and decided to climb “King Me” as an alternative to shwacking up the gully post Checkerboard Wall climbing per the climbing ranger’s recommendation. We got a very faint copy of the topo (missing a number of details due to poor print quality as we would discover) from the ranger who also said “look for a juniper tree and cairn at the base of the route”. Well, there must be more than one cairn next to a juniper tree on the traverse ramp off the top of Checkerboard Wall….

We found a juniper and a cairn and enough route features to match our ailing topo, so we headed upwards. Pretty quickly it was obvious that our line was likely rarely or never climbed, but we kept going through 3 pitches of fair to marginal quality climbing. We were really wondering why the ranger would recommend a pile like this, but on the drive home, we took a look at MProject and saw the picture and detailed topo of King Me. We obviously did not climb King Me (apologies to the climbing ranger for comments made en route ;-)), instead we climbed a line a couple of hundred feet to the right of King Me. Unless some other suckers have climbed this line, we’re thinking this might be an FA, so we’ll go with the name “Choss Me” and a grade of 5.10+ DB (don’t bother). See route pic I posted if you’re interested…. Gotta love the Black!

Picture showing King Me and "Choss Me" above the Checkerboard Wall in the Black Canyon.
Picture showing King Me and "Choss Me" above the Checkerboard Wall in the Black Canyon.
By jeff haskell
Jun 11, 2014

Those vertical zebra stripes, just to the left of the climb, are a great way to confirm you're at the correct start.