King Louie's Traverse
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King Louie's Traverse offers some of the best jug-hauling at Cactus cliff. Unfortunately the steep jugs only last for ~10 feet, but it's a fun few moves and worth the effort. Above the climbing deteriorates into easy scrambling to an awkward mantle on dirty slopers to reach the anchor.
Start in the dihedral, and traverse straight left under the roof, until it's possible to mantle into a groove. Cruise the groove to the pumpy, final bulge.
The far right end of King Louie's Ledge, on the right side of a small cirque above the approach gully.
~6 bolts to 2 BA. A stick clip is recommended. The route traverses a lot at the start, so a groundfall is a real possibility. Be sure your belayer is attentive.
The Blarney Stone is the left-most line.
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|By Doug Lintz|
From: Kearney, NE
Apr 9, 2013
An engaging boulder problem leads to some of Shelf's prickliest rock.