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King Kong
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Godzirra S 
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King Kong 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 582
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Aug 21, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Paul midway up the final pitch


P1 A tricky, difficult start that requires weaving a bit to keep it in the .10 range. Stemming off of the trees should make the start easier.

After the second bolt the difficulty eases considerably; follow the trough to the chains. 5.10c.

P2 A bouldery bit after the first bolt leads to large cobbles and easier climbing to finish out the pitch. 5.10d.

P3 Fairly mellow climbing on huge holds with one or two steep moves (but still using large holds). 5.7

P4 After jumping the narrow chasm from the top of the third pitch walk over to the base of the left tower near some bushes on the right. The bolts are a bit hard to spot initially.

Start up on fairly low-angle choss (with moss) and get up into some muddy-looking conglomerate. The angle steepens here and the climbing gets interesting. Sometimes the next bolt is hard to see; have faith that it's there and look around.

The top out onto the tower is quite fun and a most unlikely hold eases the transition.

Enjoy the view and the high class summit register. 5.11a.


Just past Rock Island there is a large pullout on the left with a bathroom. Park here and walk up the road a hundred feet or so.

Walk up the draw to the approach area for The Trash Compactor. At the base of the wall turn right and bushwhack along the base for a couple of hundred feet.

You'll eventually come to a line of bolts with two medium-sized trees a few feet from the wall.


16 total draws. Helmet recommended.

Photos of King Kong Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Scoping out the 100' high pitch four on King Kong
Scoping out the 100' high pitch four on King Kong
Rock Climbing Photo: View from pitch 1 on King Kong
View from pitch 1 on King Kong
Rock Climbing Photo: Rappelling off of the top of the 300' tower King K...
Rappelling off of the top of the 300' tower King K...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruiser pitch 3 climbing on King Kong
Cruiser pitch 3 climbing on King Kong

Comments on King Kong Add Comment
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By Skat B
From: Down Rodeo
Aug 19, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Thanks guys for bolting this awesome line!

  • Pitch 1: 5.10c starting move or two followed by 5.8ish climbing
  • Pitch 2: 5.10d pretty sick but short n soft for the grade.
  • Pitch 3: 5.7 straight forward climbing gets you on top of lower pillar
  • Pitch 4: 5.11a that felt pretty soft for a .10d/.11a SICK route!

Also did Godzirra after rapping down the side of the arete - it felt soft for a .11b but nice exposure and definitely a classic! The only downside to the final pitch is the abundance of loose cobbles - not so much on King Kong but I knocked off maybe 3 basketball-sized cobbles on Godzirra. So belayers....stay vigilant! :)
By Emerson Takahashi
Oct 24, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

P2 felt the most stout to me. Bouldery first few moves lead to more sustained climbing to the next set of anchors.

At the top of P3 you reach a great big ledge, great spot to hangout for a bit.

P4 climbs up the middle of the tower, and the first few bolts are on the lower angled ramp beneath the tower. This final pitch is more or less separated into three sections, with a good rest in between. Crux for me came when you're getting into the final bulge. Mostly just a reach move though. I'd give it 10d at the most. Amazing pitch, even though its a little dirty down low.

Hauled up an extra 60m rope to rap straight down from the big ledge, lots of rope drag though when pulling the rope through... had to walk down the hill a little to even be able to pull the rope

Might bring a pair of clippers next time and clean up the approach...
By KipHenrie
From: Farmington, utah
Jul 18, 2015

This monster is cleaning up nicely. Fab exposure and awesome view. A great experience. Love the book entry up top.

My ratings: P1: hard start (rocks coming off everywhere on the first 2 bolts) but after that easy; P2: 10b, P3: 5.7, P4: 10d (love the cobble over the top sitting there yelling grab me)

Rope drag after the long rap: Very bad. Take care with rope as much as you can when you finish. You may have to put your grigri on and pull with that.

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