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King for a Day Boulder
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Dot Dot Space, AKA: V5 ArÍte 
Drag Queen 
Drama Queen 
Joker, The 
KFAD arete 
King for a Day 
Sick On Hydrox 

King for a Day 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: some visionary (Eric Whitbeck)
Page Views: 2,723
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Aug 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: King for a Day: starts on the lowest feature with ...

Description 

Start sitting at the bottom of an overhung vertical rail/dihedral and move upwards on the sloping rail using lots of body tension. Transfer right to a second rail as the holds get bigger and the moves get longer. Top out right of the big water spout.

Location 

Located on the right side of the uphill face of the KFAD boulder. You'll notice it.

Protection 

Several pads, watch the rock that effects falls near the top-out.


Photos of King for a Day Slideshow Add Photo
A little perspective on how steep KFAD and its nei...
BETA PHOTO: A little perspective on how steep KFAD and its nei...
Ian getting ready to enter the crux moving right t...
Ian getting ready to enter the crux moving right t...

Comments on King for a Day Add Comment
Show which comments
By Williampenner
From: The 505
Aug 4, 2008

FA Eric Whitbeck. He would be amused to be called some visionary. Really just stubborn with a capacity for suffering.

A fun problem for sure.
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 14, 2008
rating: V7 7A+

Com'on Bill you've seen Eric's new climbing glasses, he is definatly a visionary. This thing is harder than many of the V7's at Hueco and all the V6's I've done with the exception of Lft El Murray. Sometimes though it just works and feels easy but it is very tough to do on command.
By Williampenner
From: The 505
Aug 14, 2008

He is switching careers to be an architect. Architects always have great glasses.
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 15, 2008
rating: V7 7A+

I'm just saying, with glasses like those he must be able to see things we mere mortals can not. Say perhapse a great line or a sequence that makes something work, possibly just x-ray vision, now that is a scary thought.
By Eric Whitbeck
Jan 27, 2011

I checked the old topo and the original grade was v4, but who knows it could be just my glasses. Maybe I need to trade them in for bifocals.
By Owen Summerscales
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 4, 2015
rating: V7 7A+

There's sandbags, then there's King For A Day. Could easily be v8 at most other climbing areas.

Awesome problem, best at the Pond
By Eric Whitbeck
Jan 5, 2015

Owen that is pretty funny. Grade it accurately in the book. The V4 rating was a joke I made after sending KFAD and falling off of Pounding Systems at Hueco the following weekend. I always thought it was V6, but I may have some trick beta not readily apparent to those without failing vision and weak fingers. KFAD's alter ego is Valkyrie Fallen at Three Gun Springs in the foothills, try that one next time you are in town.
By Owen Summerscales
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 5, 2015
rating: V7 7A+

Well you can't argue with that logic Eric. I feel like griping about the grade - along with the miserable footholds - is an integral part of the King For A Day experience... maybe I'll just keep it at V4 for the book :)

And yes that Valkyrie problem looks sweet, I should try find it sometime.
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