If there is a crux it would come up by the 3rd bolt in a one move thin section of rock. Could be the best route on the wall IMHO and should not be missed! Really killer start to climb and then just super consistent great climbing with some really fun run-outs that really are not too bad!
Located just right of Girls and Buoys and ten feet left of Magic Mirror just underneath the right side of a triangular shaped roof. Follow thin crack to roof, place some gear, then pull roof to first bolt! Rappel with TWO ropes to get down!
This is a mixed route with 4 protection bolts with homemade hangers along with some required gear placements and fixed anchors and slings up top! Probably not the best route for beginning trad climber to learn the craft as some placements are a bit crafty.
Brian placing some gear in the roof crack at begin...
BETA PHOTO: Brian getting ready to lead Kindergarten Cop@SEMIC...
Just clipped the first bolt and it's about two gea...
Brian is the little dot way up there at the anchor...
From: Decatur, GA
Apr 7, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
This is a real gem! The roof move is fun and well-protected, and the moderate runout toward the top is a good preview for anyone wanting to lead the much headier Lotta Balls (P2).
|By John Hegyes|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 7, 2011
Yes, a good warm-up for Lotta Balls. The bolts and/or hangers could use replacing.
|By Alex Rogers|
From: Sydney, Australia
Oct 4, 2011
Climbed Magic Mirror next to it, then toproped it as they share the same anchor. It was easier than it looked, the overhang is straightforward and fun - but I was glad I was not leading it as the pro in the top section is scarce and tricky, and the bolts are appalling (dodgy home-made hangers, and rusty cold shut spinners for an anchor). If this was rebolted it would be one of the best climbs in the area - an excellent route that lost stars because of the poor fixed pro.
Oct 4, 2011
Duly noted, Alex. We'll try and get around to replacing the bolts at some point.
From: West Point, UT
Nov 14, 2011
The anchors are tricky to find. Luckily for me, the guy coming off this climb told me the anchors were to the right of where you'd think they were. He had climbed 20' above them before realizing where they were. Even with that info I had to look for them. As we hiked out, I looked back and noticed someone else had just climbed about 30' above them. That couldn't have been a fun down climb.
Apr 1, 2012
The anchors are about 50 feet below the small roof and are on the right side of the face, much lower and closer to the right-hand crack than you would expect. It is easy to miss them if you are climbing on the good holds in the center of the face at that point, as the anchors are around a small corner.
Apr 24, 2012
Replaced all bolts and moved anchor slightly left for better pull and easier visual location. Hadn't climbed this rig in years, but have to agree-really, really fun pitch. You can JUST BARELY rap from the brand new stainless (old anchor was hilarious, 3 homemade cold shut spinners-total newbie diaper-loader) to the starting boulder pile with a FULL 70M rope. Lowering with a single rope is a bad idea unless you dragged an 80M. I think the black face climbs to the right are pretty rad, too, but if you only had time for 3 pitches in this area and don't lead 5.10, they would be Romper Room, K.Cop, and first pitch of Lotta Balls, not in that order. Nice "runout" face flavor on this one, although it protects nicely with a single rack and isn't dangerous at all. One of the original pro bolts was drilled into hollow onionskin and might have pulled under a hard load. Welcome to Red Rocks...
From: Reno, NV
May 2, 2012
The new bolts are wonderful - thanks.
This is a super fun route. The roof is easier than if first looks and protects really well. Higher up, the natural pro requires a bit of creativity, but if done right it's certainly not a runout route.
From: Medford NJ
Mar 13, 2014
New bolts are still nice and shiny. Romper Room was crowded so we ended up climbing this with a 60m rope. It's doable if you belay your second from the top and are OK down climbing from the high shelf at the beginning of Magic Mirror to the right.
Most people seem to think the crux is at the bottom, I thought it was right after the third bolt.