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Parete Striata
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Kimera S 

Kimera 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 6 pitches, 500', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: R. Vigiani
Page Views: 168
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Mar 5, 2012

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Fanny topping out Pitch 2.

Description 

Super cool multi-pitch outing! This route has a bit of everything with slab and overhangs.

Pitch 1) From the vaguely marked name "Kimera" start straight up the slab and head to a comfortable belay stance slightly left of where you began. (5.10a) This stance is equipped with good bolts and is about 15 feet left of some rusty old bolts/anchor.

2) Continue straight up the slab trending slightly right. The crux is right off the belay stance, which kind of sucks, but at least you get one bolt between you and the belayer. (5.10c) You'll go straight through the tree which is above the belay stance.

3) Continue straight up more slab with good holds. The pitch ends right below some overhanging juggy tufas. 5.10a

4) The crux pitch. Super sweet overhang climbing on great holds. Once out of the first bit of strain, you get a break before getting into a second bit of overhang climbing through a crack. Keep to the right and in the crack (ie. follow the bolts). (5.11a)

5) Walk up to the next belay stance which is up and off to the left a ways.

6) Climb easier rock to the top, following the bolts. 5.8 or 9

Location 

From the approach trail, continue along the base of the wall almost the entire length. Look closely at the base of the routes for their names. This one is noticeable by the easy looking slab in the beginning with a bolt maybe 15 feet off the ground.

Protection 

Plenty of bolts


Photos of Kimera Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 4 feels like it should go left at the top, but the bolt line heads right through a bit more overhang and utilizes this crack.
Pitch 4 feels like it should go left at the top, b...

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