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Sunshine Wall
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Rusty Nail, The 

Kimchi 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 15'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA:  Unknown. First lead on bolts: mnatti
Page Views: 704
Submitted By: Chris McNeil on Jan 25, 2012

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St. Stephen.

Description 

This is an awesome, little, balancy line. Start on the flake, and move up and along until it runs out. Reach out for the first hold to the left, then lay your right foot out to the right to balance out. Hold the form for the next two moves to top out.


Location 

This is to the left of the old bolted aid traverse.


Protection 

3 bolts to TR anchors.



Photos of Kimchi Slideshow Add Photo
Matty on the first lead on bolts. Kimchi, 2012.
Matty on the first lead on bolts. Kimchi, 2012.
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By mnatti
Feb 27, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Kimchi. Cape Ann 5.8+, so a Rumney 5.10(ish?). This line starts on a beautiful, hand gobbling flake and traverses left of an amazing, juggy rail. The wall is well overhung and the moves are straightforward but sustained with a sweet rock over to finish up onto the slab above. I installed 3 bolts (plus 2 on top) on this line, and after leading it, I have to say that this line alone makes the walk out to this cliff worth it. As a TR, expect a bit of a swing, but the lead is all there and totally rocks! And yes.... like most of the routes at this area, it can (and probably has been) be bouldered with a few pads and attentive spotters.