Killin' Time  5.8-

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.8- [details] FA:  FRA Jason Halladay and Allison Fritz, Nov. 2008 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Jason Halladay on Nov 17, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The route starts at the lower right end of the but...

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Description 

Not so much a route on Angel Food Wall but rather, a short crack on a good face on the small buttress that splits the Angel Food Descent Gully about half way down the gully. If you've just completed a climb of Tunnel Vision, Purblind Pillar or any of the other fine lines on the Angel Food Wall but need to kill some time on the descent while waiting for your slower friends (like we were recently) this is a fun little line to climb as you walk right past it while descending from the wall.

This is the mostly-fingers crack that splits the east face of the major buttress in the middle of the descent gully about 1/2 way down. As you descend down the gully, look back up at the east face of the buttress. Start climbing near some small bushes and find good .4 to .75 camalot placements to protect the initial bulge/roof. Up higher a tricky move past a tiny roof on less than perfect rock leads to better rock and good patina face holds along the crack to the left side of a bigger roof. Find a nice .5 camalot placement in the corner back under the roof to protect the moves left around it and enjoy fun face climbing to the flat top of the buttress.

Location 

As you descend the Angel Food gully there's a point where a major buttress splits the gully. The left side of the buttress cliffs out so you are forced to go up and right over the buttress and then down. Start at the bottom of the buttresses' east face. A small sandstone plaque might mark the start.

Protection 

Doubles in the .4 to .75 camalot range. Single #1 and single #2 camalots and some small to medium wires. At the top, walk back about 30 feet and find a good crack where a medium nut and a .5 camalot make for a good anchor. Walk back down the descent gully to your packs.