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Routes in The Whale
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Barnacle Bill T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bony Buttress T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Bony Fingers T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Killer Whale T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 215 ft (65 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Peter Croft and Andrew Stevens - 2004 |
| Page Views: | 1,324 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Jun 10, 2015 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Yes, there is a route up the overhanging terrain viewable during the rappel off Bony Fingers and it is called Killer Whale. Once this radical mixed line cleans up (and it will with traffic), it will be a classic. There is a bit of the flakey crumblies with which to contend, however. At this point I should confess that I merely TR'd this line so YMMV.
Begin by scrambling up a low 5th class broken pedestal for 50' to a bolt. I would recommend bringing your partner up to this point and then leading the rest of the route in one massive pitch. There is a bolted belay higher up, but the stance would be very unpleasant. Either way, from the pedestal, step right and immediately into the crux. Three more bolts protect some tough moves between good holds. Move right again and lieback up a thin, hollow flake to a roof, move back left under the roof and up to an intermediate anchor. Clip this and move further left and up via wild liebacking which ultimately connects to an easier twin crack system.
Rappel 200' (two ropes) straight down from the Bony Fingers anchors. If you have a single 80m rope and some quicklinks/biners to equip the intermediate anchor, you could do two rappels and therefore leave the second rope at the car.
Begin by scrambling up a low 5th class broken pedestal for 50' to a bolt. I would recommend bringing your partner up to this point and then leading the rest of the route in one massive pitch. There is a bolted belay higher up, but the stance would be very unpleasant. Either way, from the pedestal, step right and immediately into the crux. Three more bolts protect some tough moves between good holds. Move right again and lieback up a thin, hollow flake to a roof, move back left under the roof and up to an intermediate anchor. Clip this and move further left and up via wild liebacking which ultimately connects to an easier twin crack system.
Rappel 200' (two ropes) straight down from the Bony Fingers anchors. If you have a single 80m rope and some quicklinks/biners to equip the intermediate anchor, you could do two rappels and therefore leave the second rope at the car.
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