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Killer Fish Taco 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Rick Leitner, Chris Alber, 2000
Page Views: 2,923
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jan 21, 2002
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Christa Cline starting up Killer Fish Taco.

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Description 

Killer Fish Taco climbs the clean, South-facing wall on the South Face of Surprising Crag and shares its start with Choss Temple Pilots. Juggy moves through a flake lead into very nice and very thin footwork in the middle of the upper plate. KFT is a good route with nothing manufactured that I could detect. 5.11b seems generous, but for someone breaking into a 5.11 lead, this is a decent, well-protected choice.


Protection 

Seven draws and a rope.



Photos of Killer Fish Taco Slideshow Add Photo
Noi Kosila starting up KFT on a cold January day.
Noi Kosila starting up KFT on a cold January day.
Noi, looking tres cool.
Noi, looking tres cool.
Noi, making it all look so elegant.
Noi, making it all look so elegant.
Christa Cline turning the roof, using more static technique than Mike Amato.
Christa Cline turning the roof, using more static ...
Routes on the left side of the south face of Surprising Crag.  Killer Fish Taco shares the first two bolts with Choss Temple Pilots, then branches right. <br /> <br />The Fix tackles the overhang to the right.
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the left side of the south face of Surpr...
Mike Amato cutting loose at the overhang.
Mike Amato cutting loose at the overhang.
Noi, jug hauling.
Noi, jug hauling.
Approaching the crux of the climb.  Hope you cut your fingernails!
Approaching the crux of the climb. Hope you cut y...
Comments on Killer Fish Taco Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 5, 2011
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 30, 2002

This was given a .10b rating when it was first done, I think the guide book has a misprint. (Still, a nice route)

By James Davidson
Jul 17, 2003

Easy climbing below the protruding flake leads to some fun slab climbing. The bolts are well placed, so slap on some QDs and have a good time! I'd say the upper face warrants an 5.11b rating if you stay on route.

By Anonymous Coward
Mar 30, 2004

Anyone know the name and rating of the route to the right of this one, that goes over the roof?

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Mar 30, 2004

The route is called "The Fix" at 5.11a. I am guessing that a few of the holds have questionable origins.

By Greaser
Mar 31, 2004

"A few of the holds have questionable origins". What, are they bastards, or were they made in china or smuggeled in from cuba with a bunch of cigars.

No, they are not chipped. There are only 4 or 5 routes out of the 50 or so there that are chipped. Four are on the clock tower and one is up the hill above this climb. Some agressive cleaning on the owl prow (I think).

By ac
Mar 31, 2004

Go to the page for "The Fix" and you will see that several experienced climbers/route developers came to the same conclusion regarding the modified nature of that route. Greaser, if you are so sure that your assertion is correct, why don't you set the record straight on that page.

By Greaser
Mar 31, 2004

...I said it here because it was brought up here, and I did not notice anything obviously chipped.

By Nick Fury
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jun 14, 2009

Very fun route, there's a sweet heel hook at the top.

By keith story
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 31, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Fun moves at the top. Fury went for the delicate tooth and nail dance at the crux, and I went for the dyno. Either way, great route with a puzzling, balancy crux.

By martinharris
From: Glenwood Springs CO
May 11, 2011

My first 11 onsight, and it felt soo good. Super balancy and tenuous I truly thought my foot would pop at any time and I would go sailing.

By Paul Donald Andrews
From: Nederland, Co.
Jun 5, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Led KFT last Thurs. June 2nd on a perfect day. Loved it. Bolts are well located. The only real committing part is the move over the flake, which is solid. I thought it easier than the move at the same level on CTP. The upper half is a blast with good holds and elegant moves. Above the flake, I stepped left then up to a good stance. Had to make a long reach back right to clip the bolt for the crux move. High step back right onto a couple more good feet, then reach the lower horizontal crack. Hard finishing move, too. I say, if you stay within reach of the bolt line, you're on route. My partner thought I wandered a little too close to CTP, said the pure line was directly up the bolts. What do you guys think?