This route is located in the crazy colorful rocks just to the left of the main cave area. If you see a section that's got giant blocks colored green, orange, white and black in addition to the standard Big Chief off-red, you're probably in the right place.
There are two routes that ascend this section, this is the right one. The other route is Big Cheif Arete (5.11a) and is also an excellent route.
In climbing this route, you can throw away any and all moves you've ever learned in indoor and outdoor sport climbing. You will get dizzy looking around for grips and things to help you on your way up, though the climb is well worth any vertigo you may experience.
There are a few sections of this route that are a little runout, so rest when you can.
9 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.
Mar 15, 2005
Delicate and powerful with a blind throw. Great climb
|By Colin Brochard|
From: San Francisco
Nov 22, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Difficult to onsight. Feels kinda like trad climbing with bolts.
|By Colonel Mustard|
From: Reno, NV
Dec 16, 2010
The top crux is pretty stout and thin. The rest isn't that bad.